Domaine de Montcy: Tasting & Drinking
Is there anybody who loves wine who doesn’t have a soft spot for Cour-Cheverny and Romorantin? There is, to my mind, perhaps no greater indicator of the Loire’s relevance to viticultural and vinous diversity than this ancient variety, cultivated here and seemingly only here, for the last five centuries. Nothing could be worse than imagining life without Romorantin, or indeed any of the other less common white varieties that can be found dotted across Europe, everything from the Jura’s Savagnin to Italy’s Falanghina. As a consequence I was naturally thrilled to discover this domaine where the wines seem so complete, convincing and yet balanced, as was certainly the case with Laura Semeria and Domaine de Montcy. I would often buy and enjoy the wines at home.
Having spent a few years judging wine, most pertinently as a member of the Loire panel in the Decanter World Wine Awards, I would have to agree with anyone who alleged that there are some very disappointing examples of Cheverny in existence. There is, however, absolutely no reason whey the typical white Cheverny blend, Sauvignon Blanc softened by a touch of Chardonnay, should not work well. The same for the reds, which tend to be a blend dominated by Pinot Noir, with Gamay as principal partner. I enjoyed drinking these wines as well.
Today, of course, this is effectively a new domaine, with new owners, a new winemaker and new cellars in a new location. Just about the only constant factor here is the vineyard, which has changed little, the current owners as committed to the organic and biodynamic care of the vines as Laura was. My experience with the wines from the new team is limited, and come from vintages before the new cellars were built, and before the new winemaker was appointed. Perhaps, for the moment, I should reserve judgement on which direction this domaine is taking, but it certainly remains a domaine of significant interest. (26/8/14, updated 22/2/25)
