Château Lanessan: Tasting & Drinking
Château Lanessan has a history as an insider’s wine, one of many hundreds of cru bourgeois names which do not inspire awe in the way that Latour, Petrus or Haut-Brion might, but which still remain of interest even to those drinkers of Bordeaux who are familiar with such grand names. This is because the wines here have demonstrated, in many vintages, excellent quality at a fair price, and they are especially appealing to those looking for something different to the increasingly prevalent slick, glistening, fruit-rich style in which Bordeaux today seems to excel. These are dark, savoury and polished wines, concentrated but savoury rather than sweet, and are for real Bordeaux drinkers, not those whose only concern is the name on the label.
Following a review of the estate’s production back in 2015, after a visit and vertical tasting at the property, favourites from past vintages included the 2005 and 2000 vintages, although the 2014 vintage, tasted during the primeurs, also looked promising. One vintage of Château Lanessan with which I never had much success, however, was the 1996, which always seemed beset by cork taint. In fact, of all the bottles I have encountered, not one has been free of this affliction. So avoid this vintage, but otherwise I would have said not to be wary of older vintages, as these wines age as you would expect for any Cabernet-dominant left bank wine, regardless of this estate’s ‘lowly’ Haut-Médoc appellation.
Since then favourites from the property, encountered either during the primeurs, or after bottling, include the 2018, 2019, 2019 and 2022 vintages. Other vintages have been less convincing, including the 2024 which was lacklustre, but then this was a weaker vintage to be lined up against the likes of 2013, 2002 and various less attractive vintages of the 1980s and 1970s. So, for the moment, the jury is out on how this property will develop under its new management. There is clearly new investment and drive here, so I have hope that quality will be maintained or improved. (26/8/15, updated 3/4/26)
