Château Figeac: Tasting & Drinking

I do wonder whether extolling or critiquing the wines of Château Figeac isn’t a little akin to shouting at the wind, or trying to hold back the tide. This is a domaine that has, historically at least, divided opinion, some finding the occasional touch of phenolic greenness – perhaps more significant in older vintages than in the wines today – that came from the high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc to be an anathema, while others adored the savoury character, the darkness of it, the idea of a wine centred around cool-headed structure rather than creamy, flashy fruit as is the case with so many wines here in St Emilion. In some ways it sat at the opposite end of the spectrum to all the inky dark, over-extracted, overly alcoholic wines that seem to represent a certain mindset with regard to wine in this corner of Bordeaux (although, to be fair, this is also a less prominent feature of the appellation these days).

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