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Bordeaux 2007: The Médoc Communes

It is perhaps expected in my review of the wines of the Médoc to provide some indication of which commune has been victorious, which one should take the title of most successful for 2007. Other than saying each of the communes displays a remarkable ability to disappoint, however, I am not sure what accolades I should be handing out.

Nevertheless, our enthusiasm perhaps somewhat dampened, it is still necessary to deal with each of the left bank appellations in the usual fashion, and so in my 2007 notes I start with the most northerly and work my way southwards. First off the blocks therefore is St Estèphe, a chronically under-represented commune in these tastings as Montrose, Cos d'Estournel and Calon-Ségur do not engage in UGC activities. That leaves just four estates flying the flag, the only two remaining cru classé properties and two 'lesser' estates, for want of a better description, After all, it is not unusual for one or both of the latter pair to outshine the first two. In this tasting, however, none really shone at all.

Moving onto Pauillac, the tone of the vintage began to ring clearer and clearer as I moved along the wines. There are only so many ways that you can write the word 'lean'. There was one notable success in this commune though, from Pichon-Baron, a harmonious offering which was attractive, perfumed and certainly a super effort in the context of the vintage. Its stablemate Pichon-Lalande as well as Pontet-Canet also showed a little promise and all three will benefit for a little time in the cellar, although not too long for the Pichon twins, this is not a vintage that will benefit from extended cellaring. Pontet-Canet, with its thick background of tannins, may need a little longer to soften up though; I only hope the fruit holds out.

Further south again and I thought I found a little more uniformity in St Julien, where as a group the wines displayed a smidgen more substance and flesh, and the classic St Julien trio of Langoa and the two Léovilles (by which I mean Poyferré and Barton - like the St Estèphe super-seconds, Léoville-Las-Cases does not partake in UGC events) all showed good efforts. But they are only good in the context of the vintage of course. And in truth I think Pichon-Baron is superior to all of these efforts.

These first three communes seemed to establish a trend of improving quality, starting with the dismal wines of St Estèphe, before the less than admirable Pauillacs and the slightly more uniform St Juliens. If this trend was real, Margaux should offer something brighter and more appealing, surely? The first few samples seemed to suggest this might be so, with half-decent wines from Brane-Cantenac, Cantenac-Brown, Dauzac and Desmirail. Sadly, the situation degenerated from there onwards, with the commune showing the usual Margaux unreliability, and in truth Rauzan-Ségla is the only estate in the commune worthy of any significant comment. My tasting finished up with two of the five Haut-Médoc cru classé chateaux, La Tour Carnet and Cantemerle. Neither sent any shivers down my spine. (30/10/09)

The Médoc Communes 2007: Tasting Notes

Tasted at the UGC de Bordeaux tasting in October 2009. Click to locate stockists.

St Estèphe

Chateau Cos Labory 2007: Dense and gravelly fruit on the nose here, slightly hot, seems almost baked, strange considering the nature of the vintage. Lean on entry, soft and plump fruit, a slightly hard structure underneath. Grippy, a touch overly tannic, with disconnected fruit. Fair. 14/20

Chateau Lafon-Rochet 2007: Not very expressive on the nose here, hot fruit and gravel presented in a very subtle, distant style. A hard structure, no generosity here, ungiving and quite lean in terms of fruit. A touch of bitterness through the midpalate too. Not a great success. 13.5+/20

Chateau Les Ormes de Pez 2007: Rather dense but also somewhat withdrawn nose. Dry fruit on the palate, lean substance, some firm tannins. Lots of grip and extract here behind the thin fruit, and a smoky, charcoaly hardness. Seems a touch overworked I think. 14+/20

Chateau Phélan-Ségur 2007: Attractive fruit on the nose of this wine, showing a style nicely typical of the appellation, with gravelly but accessible fruit. Moderate weight on the palate, not particularly generous admittedly, and like other wines a touch hard and lean. It has a more appropriate composition though. 14.5+/20

Pauillac

Chateau d'Armailhac 2007: Not so expressive as some of the other wines here, with a very low level of reserved fruit. A rather lean style on the palate, it has freshness but that is at the expense of a stony, even steely texture. Red fruits and a very light presence in the mouth. A touch hollow too. The primeur samples were better than this. 13.5+/20

Chateau Batailley 2007: The nose here offers up elements of dark fruit and a seemingly light application of oak. There is gentle substance on the palate, all in a very unknit style though. There is some mildly attractive fruit, although with very round edges, and a soft, ill defined finish. All told, not particularly distinguished. 13.5+/20

Chateau Clerc-Milon 2007: Rather polished fruit on the nose, some exotic elements to it, with notes of black cherry. Moderate weight at best, with the texture of polished stone. Just a touch of softness in the middle but overall a very lean style. And it has a short finish too. 14+/20

Chateau Croizet-Bages 2007: Dark fruit, nutty oak, slightly hot, although the complete package isn't totally unattractive. Supple palate, fleshy, gentle and accessible. Even a little plumpness, but with plenty of acid too. Spicy and peppery tannins at the back of it. Overall easy, somewhat attractive in parts, but unfocused in others. 14+/20

Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse 2007: Tasted en primeur, the sample seemed charcoaly and sharply unbalanced. Was it just faulty? This seems better; nicely perfumed violet fruit on the nose, with lightly honeyed oak, these two elements working well together. A soft and supple entry, somewhat unknit, but with ripe tannins and a soft texture, a touch lean but with some substance. The tannins are still quite obvious, with a chalky character, but overall this is at least approachable. 15.5+/20

Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral 2007: Solid and slightly feral fruit on the nose here, fairly reserved, dark, and slightly hot. A palate with a little substance, nicely gentle fruit, and some rather raw tannins behind. Loose-knit. Overall this doesn't make a very positive impression on me. Short finish too. 14+/20

Chateau Lynch-Bages 2007: Firm and nutty oak on the nose here, and very reserved fruit. A leanly composed palate, and what substance exists is easily overshadowed by the firm core of tannins within. It is the same powerful grip I noted en primeur. Overdone, with lean fruit, and a short finish. 13.5+/20

Chateau Lynch-Moussas 2007: Lightly perfumed fruit on the nose, stones and violets to the fore. Like so many other wines, a lean entry, light and lacking in substance, and overall a very delicate style. There is a little body through the midpalate admittedly, but otherwise little to commend this wine to me. 13.5+/20

Chateau Pichon-Baron 2007: Dense fruit, a little creamy oak, more expressive aromatically than Pichon-Lalande which I tasted alongside. An impressive palate for the vintage; supple and lightly creamy in terms of texture. A very appealing style, harmonious, with integrated tannins. Balanced, and overall showing very well. A good firm finish and even a little length. 16.5+/20

Chateau Pichon-Lalande 2007: Quite a pure set of aromas on the nose here, stylishly poised, with a little nutty oak. A moderate texture on the palate, with some substance to it. Moderate extract and acidity, fresh, with black cherry fruit. This certainly has some appeal, and may benefit from a short time in the cellar. 16+/20

Chateau Pontet-Canet 2007: Heavy oak apparent on the nose here, with dark fruit, and slightly exotic black cherry. A gentle substance on the palate, polished, some nice fruit, with a texture that is a little more fleshy than so many of the other lean efforts poured alongside this wine. Lots of oak though, and a heavily spiced grip. I think this is a bit much for the vintage, but it is nevertheless one of the better wines. 16+/20

St Julien

Chateau Beychevelle 2007: A slightly meaty nose here, fairly light fruit admittedly, with an aromatic, crunchy cherry style. A very firm outer shell on the palate, more crunchy fruit here, a light and supple style. Little flesh, defined cranberry and cherry fruit. A short finish, where the tannins show. It reflects the vintage but it has harmony. This is a good effort. 15.5+/20

Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2007: An aroma of old, polished oak here, with slightly macerated fruit. Firm, reserved, old-school style on the palate too. Firm, dry, rather dusty, with a lot of structure and tannin here. A little hard in truth, extracted, but there are certainly good points. 14.5+/20

Chateau Gruaud-Larose 2007: A nice depth of character on the nose here, especially when compared with the rest of the appellation. Fresh, with just a touch of oak spice. A supple palate, nicely composed, with a gentle ripe structure. Lightly fleshy, all very gentle though, with a little violet fruit. Overall, an attractive wine. 16+/20

Chateau Lagrange 2007: An attractive nose here, with a slight nuance of perfume to the fruit, with little exotic fruit elements too. It has appeal. The palate is soft, supple, gently fleshy, perhaps too soft? Certainly modern in style, but also charcoaly and unknit at present. Appealing fruit though. A good effort showing better than the primeur sample, which I found difficult to judge. 15.5+/20

Chateau Langoa-Barton 2007: Oak here, with notes of honey and toast, but rather inexpressive in terms of fruit. The same character comes through on the palate, which has a very straightforward composition, with a light, balanced, gentle texture. There is some substance though, and as if to make up for its closed nature there is a sudden flourish of fruit on the finish. It shows a little length too. This certainly has some promise. 16+/20

Chateau Léoville-Barton 2007: A very attractive nose here, partly the sweetness of the oak but also the fruit, presented in a clean, reserved, restrained style. Polished, with a smooth outer shell on the palate, with gentle fruit. A lifted style, with roast herb elements, and a gentle linear finish. A little substance towards the end as well. This will come good with time, but as always is one for the classicists. 16+/20

Chateau Léoville-Poyferré 2007: Nutty oak here, alongside some gently perfumed fruit, the two working quite nicely together. An attractive palate, showing a little substance, with spices and good fruit acidity. Light and supple tannins, a little more bold than some wines. This has structure and some potential, and a little more length than some too. A good effort. 16+/20

Chateau Saint-Pierre 2007: Solid fruit on the nose here, quite reserved, with clean fruit. Not very expressive at first, but opening out with time to show a more expressive character, with notes of black olive and vanilla. A supple entry, a little lean, but with more flesh in the midpalate. The tannins are soft, polished, although a little harder and more gritty in the finish. Light and short, but well composed and overall good. 15.5+/20

Chateau Talbot 2007: A dense style on the nose, gently aromatic fruit, rather introverted though, hiding under a layer of hard polished oak. Dry, with a nicely gentle substance. Linear, ripe, even a little chewy, this has somewhat prominent structure and a little less fruit and substance than I would like. It seems a little more forced than my primeur experience. 14+/20

Margaux

Chateau d'Angludet 2007: A surprising presence of deep and dark fruit on the nose here, with some oak alongside. The palate has a supple style, nice substance, rounded, and overall appropriate for the nice grip found beneath. Appealing, gently flattering, this is a good effort. 14.5+/20

Chateau Brane-Cantenac 2007: Slightly hot and polished fruit here, although it seems to have a better character on the palate though. Here it is attractive, composed, quite perfumed, with an appropriate spicy grip. There is a real element of spice and pepper in the finish particularly, before the wine quickly fades into a fairly short finish. There are some positive elements here. 15+/20

Chateau Cantenac-Brown 2007: A pretty nose here, perfumed red fruits dominating, and overall this is quite attractive. A supple palate, gently textured, well composed, subtle but with some body and substance. Overall a nice style, and quite attractive for the vintage. This is certainly a success considering this estate's recent track record. 15+/20

Chateau Dauzac 2007: This has an attractive perfume, and shows some Margaux typicity I feel, with a perfumed gravel alongside a sweet, black fruit character. A nicely polished style, lightly textured, with a firm, tannic core. A gentle composition, polished and integrated, and there is a little backbone and substance here through the midpalate. Good. 15+/20

Chateau Desmirail 2007: Good, deep, spicy fruit here, and this is a really appealing character on the nose in this vintage. The palate is supple, perhaps slightly chalky, with notes of violet perfume, with a light but appropriate texture and a stylish composition. Overall really quite attractive. 15.5+/20

Chateau Durfort-Vivens 2007: A very interesting nose here, again displaying a darker array of fruits than some other wines, and with some exotic spices on the side. Polished, slightly hard outer shell, with red-black fruit within, alongside some spiced tannins and a similarly spicy finish. Well composed, with some attractive points. 14.5+/20

Chateau Ferrière 2007: Gentle spice here, supple with quiet black fruit notes. A parallel style on the palate, with some mild polish and gentle fruit. A dark character behind it all, with gentle, well hidden tannins. A nice and supple character which means this wine will drink well young I think. 15+/20

Chateau Giscours 2007: Perfumed red fruits here, notes of violet, overall quite an attractive nose. A supple palate, with slightly crunchy red-black fruits, mainly the former, inside a polished outer shell. Nicely coated midpalate tannins, light in style, but nicely composed. This could be very appealing given time. 15.5+/20

Chateau Kirwan 2007: Not very expressive on the nose. Rather closed down on the palate also, but with a gentle texture, supple, but quite loose-knit as well. This wine is very difficult to judge in this reticent state, but it doesn't have a huge amount of immediate appeal. 14+?/20

Chateau Lascombes 2007: A big and smoky nose here, with the usual thick layer of toasty oak that I have now come to expect from Lascombes. A slightly hollow start to the palate though, which seems quite dry and lacking in character, and which is hugely tannic. Full of charred elements which coat the mouth, and I am afraid I find this overworked and over the top. 14+/20

Chateau Marquis de Terme 2007: Slightly warm and baked fruits on the nose here, with a hint of pastry too. A very hard and solid surface to the palate, with no give or generosity to be found here. The finish is infused with tannin, whereas on the palate itself it seems very reticent. Difficult to judge today, but doesn't seem up to my en primeur impression. 14+?/20

Chateau Monbrison 2007: An attractive nose here, with dark fruits, a touch of perfume, and a lightly oaked character. The palate is supple, with perfumed red fruits, and a nicely integrated and balanced structure. The tannins are gentle, the flavours attractive, and overall it seems very appropriate for the vintage. 15+/20

Chateau Prieuré-Lichine 2007: Dark and quite concentrated fruit on the nose here, lightly perfumed too. Again this wine has a very hard and ungiving palate, an outer shell within which hides some polished fruit. Unlike my primeur experiences, when I found crisp fruit and freshness in abundance, today the wine seems dull, without any bright elements or lift. It is difficult to be conclusive, but this seems quite unremarkable today 13.5+/20

Chateau Rauzan-Gassies 2007: There are some appealing although admittedly fleeting aromatics here, with a little honeyed oak too. Notes of violet perfume. Attractive, supple fruit on the palate, not overworked, and more accessible than some. Chalky tannins. Fresh, lifted, with pebbly red fruit flavour. A decent wine. 15+/20

Chateau Rauzan-Ségla 2007: The first taste of this wine was corked, and by the look of the bottle I wasn't the first taster here. What did the other tasters think of the wine? A sample drawn from a freshly opened bottle showed some lovely nutty fruit, spice and good style. A nice substance on the palate, elegant, textured but also refined. An appealing character and great composition here, with a very harmonious finish. One of the best wines from this commune I think. 16+/20

Chateau Siran 2007: Nice pretty fruit on the nose here, in the black spectrum, with notes of vanilla. A fresh, clean and very open style. On the palate it is soft and supple, with a rather loose-knit character. There are soft black fruits here, mirroring the nose, although overall the wine lacks precision. Certainly approachable though. 13.5+/20

Chateau du Tertre 2007: An exotic nose here, deeply spicy, appealing, with a good depth of fruit. Very appealing on the palate as well, nice substance, fresh acids too. Quite a lot of tannins in the background here, although it all seems to sit fairly well together. A grippy finish, admittedly rather short, but there is some promise to be found here. 15.5+/20

Médoc and Haut-Médoc

Chateau Cantemerle 2007: A surprisingly pretty style of wine here, with fresh, gravelly red fruits, not at all forced, with a gentle application of wood. Softly textured, with chalky tannins, a nice lightly plump style. Perhaps a touch charcoaly, but nicely dense in the middle. At least it hasn't been overworked. 14.5+/20

Chateau La Tour Carnet 2007: Dark and aromatic fruits here, fine and fairly well perfumed. Again, a leaner style on the palate, with grippy tannin for backbone, but not that much flesh or substance to cover it. Nevertheless there is something to it in the finish. And there are some appealing elements of harmony here. If it fleshes out a little more, this could be quite decent. 15.5+/20