Bordeaux 2007 at Two Years: The Médoc Communes
It is perhaps expected in my review of the wines of the Médoc to provide some indication of which commune has been victorious, which one should take the title of most successful for 2007. Other than saying each of the communes displays a remarkable ability to disappoint, however, I am not sure what accolades I should be handing out.
Nevertheless, our enthusiasm perhaps somewhat dampened, it is still necessary to deal with each of the left bank appellations in the usual fashion, and so in my 2007 notes I start with the most northerly and work my way southwards. First off the blocks therefore is St Estèphe, a chronically under-represented commune in these tastings as Montrose, Cos d’Estournel and Calon-Ségur do not engage in UGC activities. That leaves just four estates flying the flag, the only two remaining cru classé properties and two ‘lesser’ estates, for want of a better description, After all, it is not unusual for one or both of the latter pair to outshine the first two. In this tasting, however, none really shone at all.
Moving onto Pauillac, the tone of the vintage began to ring clearer and clearer as I moved along the wines. There are only so many ways that you can write the word ‘lean’. There was one notable success in this commune though, from Pichon-Baron, a harmonious offering which was attractive, perfumed and certainly a super effort in the context of the vintage. Its stablemate Pichon-Lalande as well as Pontet-Canet also showed a little promise and all three will benefit for a little time in the cellar, although not too long for the Pichon twins, this is not a vintage that will benefit from extended cellaring. Pontet-Canet, with its thick background of tannins, may need a little longer to soften up though; I only hope the fruit holds out.
