Ten Years On: 2002 Loire Valley
This look at the Loire in 2002 kicks off with a quartet of sparkling wines, including one from the Bollinger-owned Langlois-Chateau. The Quadrille cuvée is the top of the range here, and it shows. I find its polished character very appealing, although I also understand many would prefer something more readily tied to the Loire in style. For this, you can go to other houses in Saumur, or we can simply leave this appellation behind and travel upriver to Vouvray, which is the source of the other three wines. All three were in excellent nick at this tasting, but once again the 2002 Pétillant Réserve from Domaine Huet showed what a truly stunning wine this is. There is no greater sparkling wine from the Loire currently available; like Petrus or Le Pin, this is one you have to tick off your wine ‘life list’!
There were just two representatives from Anjou here, each one representing iconic styles from this region of France. First, Chenin Blanc in all its dry glory, with the Savennières Clos du Papillon from Domaine des Baumard; I’ve certainly not always been enamoured with this cuvée in this vintage, so it was reassuring to see this perform so well. And representing all that is possible when Chenin Blanc is married with the right soils and botrytis, the quality of the Quintessence cuvée from Domaine de Juchepie shone out like a beacon; this is a wine that could challenge any from the supposedly superior appellations of Bonnezeaux or Quarts de Chaume.
Before getting stuck into Vouvray proper, I report on three red wines. I was apprehensive about the 2002 Vaumoreau from Druet as, despite the grand reputation of the domaine, I have had some disappointing experiences with these wines over the years. There was no such concern necessary here though, as this showed magnificently. I’m only sorry that I didn’t line it up against the wines from Bordeaux in the next instalment of this tasting; I have a feeling that it would have done very well indeed. Meanwhile the 2002 St Nicolas de Bourgueil Les Malgagnes from Lydie & Max Cognard-Taluau was very fine, although not quite as exuberantly confident as it was a few years ago (which reminds me, I must revisit the 2005 again soon), and the Chinon Les Picasses showed a similarly more introverted character.
