Ten Years On: 2002, Other Regions
The real focus here, for some reason, is Germany. I’m not quite sure how I ended up with so many bottles from this vintage in my cellar (those below are just a representative sample), nor why Dr Loosen has such a strong representation among them. Nevertheless they are here, and so I might as well open, tasted and enjoy! Before that, however, there are a few other wines to get to first, starting with two wines from Champagne. First up is La Grand Année from Bollinger which, in the 2002 vintage, is truly stunning. It doesn’t have quite the overtly oxidative style usually displayed I feel, but I prefer it for that. I’m very happy to have several more bottles of this in the cellar. In a different style the 2002 Gastronome from Pierre Gimonnet was also in tip-top shape though; again, I’m delighted that I will be able to revisit this wine in the future.
I’m not sure I can say the same for the three wines from Chablis next tasted, from Billaud-Simon and William Fèvre. The first was very decent but unenthralling, and quite simply doesn’t seem to have lived up to earlier suggestions at forthcoming development. As for William Fèvre, one wine – the 2002 Premier Cru Montmains – was lightly touched by oxidation, although not to a degree where I rejected the wine, and in fact it retained enough freshness and definition to be enjoyable. Better was the 2002 Bougros Côte Bouguerots, which showed a purity that suggests we should be confident of further development here. But then I thought that about the Billaud-Simon as well…..
After a very swift detour to Bandol for a superb wine from Domaine Tempier, the Cuvée La Tourtine, it was off to Germany. I have divided my notes up according to prädikat, beginning with two kabinetts from Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt and Dönnhoff, and despite the reputation of the latter I have to confess I much preferred the former. From then on it was Dr Loosen all the way, with a range of wines from Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Erdener Treppchen and Ürziger Würzgarten vineyards. The most remarkable was without doubt the final wine, the 2002 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, which put its companion auslese bottling to shame somewhat. To enhance identification of each wine, I have included the AP number in all cases. (18/12/12)
