Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy, 2016 Update
One of the joys of Sancerre, as a vineyard or appellation, is its expanse. In a tiny appellation such as Savennières Roche-aux-Moines, or Quarts de Chaume, the vineyard has long been defined, every dim and distant corner mapped and planted. All the important domaines have been well described, and those of us looking for something new must wait for a domaine to change hands, control shifting from one generation to the next, or for a tiny parcel to be sold or rented out anew, to see any significant changes.
Meanwhile, in Sancerre, I get the feeling that there are many more unexplored (or at least less frequently visited) nooks and crannies waiting for the arrival of appropriately inquisitive drinker. I certainly feel that, during the past few years, I have ‘discovered’ some really interesting domaines in communes too-often overlooked in favour of destinations such as Chavignol, Bué and of course Sancerre itself.
Although I first tasted the wines of Pascal Reverdy (pictured above) quite a few years ago now, before this recent flurry of exploration, he certainly fits the bill. The domaine is located in Sury-en-Vaux, towards the north-western periphery of the Sancerre vineyard. The wines of the domaine are very appealing, treading a line between fruit-fresh approachability, especially in the domaine cuvées, and taut, mineral-washed complexity, features found particularly in the more upper-class wines. Years after I first tasted the wines, this domaine remains a regular stop on my tasting ‘circuit’ through the Loire Valley.
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