Les Maisons Rouges, 2025 Update
Heading off the beaten track in the Loire Valley can bring rich vinous rewards, particularly if the result is the discovery of the wines of the Jasnières, Coteaux du Loir and Coteaux du Vendômois appellations, all of which lie along the course of the Loir, a tributary of the Sarthe. Lying a decent drive north of Vouvray these vineyards are easily overlooked, but they are well worth visiting and exploring.
Not only is the crescent-shaped slope of vineyards which constitutes the Jasnières appellation a viticultural gem which is a beautiful sight to behold, the wines of this region offer something distinctly Ligérian; wines made from two varieties which some might argue are the king and queen of Loire cultivars. The whites are made using Chenin Blanc (of course), which here tends to a distinctive, crystalline, finely-drawn expression, while the reds are not built from Cabernet Franc, Gamay or Côt, the usual suspects in Touraine, but from Pineau d’Aunis.
Pineau d’Aunis is a uniquely Ligérian variety; the name is derived from pin, because the bunches are said to resemble a pine cone in shape (the same etymology as Pinot Noir and the remainder of the Pinot family). Its wines are distinctive; it is an excellent variety for rosé, but then so are many other Ligérian cultivars and it is really the reds which stand out in a crowd, as they are often imbued with the scents of exotic spices, pepper being quite classic. It is yet another facet of the Loire Valley’s wonderful viticultural diversity.
In this short tasting report I take a look at half a dozen recent releases from Les Maisons Rouges, a domaine which sits a stone’s throw from the waters of the Loire. These days run by Julien Peltier, the son-in-law of the founders, the domaine has been organic since 2002 and biodynamic since 2009, this status certified by Biodyvin. Julien has about 9 hectares of vines to work with, including some very old vines in the highly-regarded Clos des Jasnières.
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