Jean-Philippe Agisson: Tasting & Drinking
I stopped off to meet Jean-Philippe Agisson for the first time in June 2024; I could not think of a more appropriate way in which to limber up for undertaking the Trail de Sancerre for the first time; several glasses of top-notch Sancerre, followed by a long run up and down the hills of this appellation. Of course, it might be that the two events were on separate days – perhaps you should put my suggestion that one directly followed the other down to artistic licence.
We started off with the 2023 vintage, which was challenging in the Loire heartlands of Anjou, Saumur and Touraine, where many growers suffered with acid rot consequent upon a plague of Drosophila suzukii. The Central Vineyards did a little better though, as there was warmer and drier weather during the summer months, and September was favourable, with 15% less rainfall than the norm. A week of warm weather brought the fruit to a good maturity and picking began. Even so, there was still a significant requirement for selection here at harvest-time, Jean-Philippe ruing the fact he had to discard a significant percentage of the crop as he picked.
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