Domaine des Huards: Tasting & Drinking
It can be difficult to generalise on Romorantin; there are only a few domaines that vinify this ancient variety, with Domaine des Huards being one, François Cazin, Philippe Tessier, Domaine de Montcy and Domaine de la Charmoise being notable others. And in each case the style seems to say as much about the beliefs and methods of the vigneron as it does about the grape.
Certainly this seems to be true here, at Domaine des Huards, where Michel Gendrier’s emphasis is on purity of style, fermenting in steel, avoiding oak, and bottling after a few months on the lees, sans bâtonnage. The wines start off showing floral and fruit aromas, but soon tighten up into a more tense, rigid and steely style, slowly revealing some gentle nut-tinged complexity as they age. Stylistically, they remind me a little of the old-school Savennières from the likes of Château d’Epiré or Domaine aux Moines.
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