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Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy

There are any number of Reverdy domaines in and around Sancerre, and it is certainly worth getting to know which ones turn out wonderful, minerally, structured, benchmark wines that help define the capabilities of Sauvignon Blanc, and which turn out more generic, uninspiring, varietally-orientated wines. The domaine of Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy is certainly one of the former, a source not only of fine-boned Sauvignon Blancs that reflect their terroir, but also of very good red Sancerre.

A family domaine, Pascal (pictured right) took over the running of the estate in 1985, their father entering a well-earned retirement. He was subsequently joined by his younger brother Nicolas in 1993, and together the siblings set about improving and expanding their domaine, developing an admirable reputation in the process. Their future was bright, but it was all torn asunder when tragedy struck in 2007. As the two brothers worked together in felling a tree, Nicolas was struck by a falling branch; the injuries were apparently severe, and Nicolas died later in hospital.

I think such heartbreak would be enough to make any brother throw in the towel, especially two brothers as close as Pascal and Nicolas. But during the few years that have passed since that day Pascal has managed to keep the domaine running, and the quality of the wines does not seem, from my tastings at least, to have faltered. He has been joined by Sophie, Nicolas' widow, and together these two, as well as Pascal's wife Nathalie, continue their work, not merely coping but rather continuing to strive for excellence, and expanding their estate as they do so.

The Domaine and Vines

The domaine is based to the north of Sancerre in Maimbray, a small hamlet not far from Verdigny and Chavignol. Having started out with 3.5 hectares, Pascal and Nathalie now have 14 hectares under their direction, this being 11 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc and 3 hectares of Pinot Noir, the latest addition to their vinous portfolio having been 1.5 hectares of the latter variety acquired in 2009. The vines, with an average age greater than 25 years, are located in Maimbray and in nearby Sury en Vaux, on the steep chalk hills which typify the region. This is Kimmeridgian terroir like that to the east in Chablis, a mix of clay and chalk known locally as terre blanche. The vineyards are managed along sustainable lines, the vigour kept in check by interplanting with grass and debudding, ripening encouraged and yields ameliorated with leaf-thinning and green-harvesting. The fruit is hand harvested, with a first selection in the vineyard and then sorted on vibrating tables before pressing and fermentation. The Sauvignon Blanc receives a gentle pneumatic pressing, whereas the Pinot Noir is destemmed and transferred to resin tanks prior to fermentation.

The domaine's reputation concerns both red and white cuvées, and there is also a rosé produced here. Exactly which wines are available to you depends on your locality, as some are destined only for export to the USA; the latter I haven't tasted, and I am much more familiar with those cuvées distributed with Europe.

The Wines of Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy

There are two principal white cuvées, starting with the straight Terre de Maimbray; This comes from 20-year old  vines grown on the typical Kimmeridgian terroirs around Maimbray, hence the name. Hand harvested (this is the case for all the wines here), pressed pneumatically, fermented cool in steel and then aged on its lees, and bottled without cold stabilisation it is an excellent entry-level wine and a fine introduction not only to the domaine but to the appellation as a whole. The second of these two cuvées is Les Anges Lots, previously referred to as the Vieilles Vignes cuvée, made from old vines (planted between 1936 and 1950) grown on the typical chalk-rich soils again. This cuvée, harvested at less than 40 hl/ha, is fermented in 40-hectolitre wooden vats, either old oak or acacia, where it is kept on its lees with bâtonnage for ten months prior to bottling without filtration or cold stabilisation. One other white cuvée that can be tracked down is Les Coûtes, from a single hillside lieu-dit full of 50-year old vines, harvested at 45 hl/ha. This wine appears to be destined solely for North America.

There is a very worthwhile rosé, made from pressed fruit rather than the saignée method, but otherwise it is the reds that draw our attention next. Whereas many domaines seem to excel in one colour but not the other, Pascal and company seem to do very well whether dealing with Sauvignon or Pinot, and so the reds are just as worthy of exploration as the whites. Again the portfolio opens with the straight Terre de Maimbray, made from 25-year old vines grown on typical clay-chalk terroirs around Maimbray. The fruit is fermented in resin tank before transfer into a mixture of barrels and hogsheads for ten months, prior to bottling without filtration or cold stabilisation. The reds were once capped off by the cuvée Evolution, although following the sorry events of 2007 the top red is now named Sancerre à Nicolas. This cuvée originates from fairly young vines, the vineyard only having been established in 2000, but with a notable terroir of limestone rather than the terre blanche that otherwise dominates. This is fermented in wood before 12 months in a mix of casks and half-hogsheads, including 40% new wood.

Having tasted the range here in the company of Pascal Reverdy, and having savoured the wines at home as well, it seems clear that this is a domaine where you can buy with confidence. As I alluded in my introduction, however, Reverdy is not an uncommon name amongst the vignerons of Sancerre; there are approaching a dozen similarly named domaines dotted around the town. Watch out for Hippolyte Reverdy, Bailly-Reverdy, Jean Reverdy et Fils, Domaine Reverdy-Cadet, Daniel Reverdy and father and son team Bernard and Noel Reverdy, to name a few. Some turn out very acceptable wines, whereas others perhaps not. But stick with Pascal & Nicolas, and you should be safe. (23/5/06, updated 27/7/10)

Contact details:
Address: Maimbray, 18300 Sury-en-Vaux
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 48 79 37 31
Fax: +33 (0) 2 48 79 41 48

Domaine Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy - Tasting Notes

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Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray 2009: Hand-harvested, argilo-calcaire soils. Very evocative fruit on the nose here, expressive and very stylish. A beautiful texture, fat and rather polished, but linear too and full of grip. A fine citrus and stone fruit character. Overall a great style which could be very fine indeed. 17-18+/20 (February 2010)

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Les Anges Lots 2009: This wine, which comes from "a very ripe vintage" says Pascal, although he adds "not in the style of 2003", has 0.5 g/l residual sugar and 15% alcohol. The nose has a aromatically heady style, all peach and rosemary. In the palate this dry wine has a remarkable panoply of rich flavours, suggestive of honey, beeswax and minerals. Lots of grip underneath it all too, and a brilliant definition despite the wines alcohol-based structure. I find the 15% difficult to sense, and it doesn't put the wine out of balance, a fact which has Pascal almost hopping with glee. Great polished-stone style. A wine with excellent character. 18-18.5+/20 (February 2010)

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray 2008: From vineyards around the village of Maimbray, soils are argilo-calcaire. A lovely, evocative and open style here, with a nose of fresh citrus fruits and white peach. A very gentle and polished, subtle style with a honeyed texture and good substance underneath. Really delicious, stylish, with a soft backbone of acidity. Nice grip though. Very good. 17/20 (February 2010)

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Les Ange Lots 2008: Old vines. An evocative nose here, lovely fruit but presented in a very creamy style. Wonderful flesh on the palate, great style, supple texture. It has a very firm composition but there is finesse here too, a crisp definition of citrus fruit flavours with nuances of flower petals and pebbles. A very impressive cuvée. 18+/20 (February 2010)

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Rouge Terre de Maimbray 2008: This wine has a great colour in the glass and some fine red fruits on the nose, with a smoky-cherry character. Softly textured, fresh though, with a supple and balanced extract, this is a wine of lovely style. Excellent substance. Very drinkable! 17-18+/20 (February 2010)

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Rouge à Nicolas 2008: Not long bottled, at the end of December 2009. A beautiful colour here, a very warm fruit style again here, although with a polished density to it. Fine style on the palate, lots of structure and ripe tannins, firm with very good acidity. Rich dark fruits. A big and fairly substantial effort here; this could keep in the cellar for years. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Les Anges Lots 2007: Old vines. This has much more punch than the Terre de Maimbray cuvées, a strong stony fruit character on the nose alongside a fine, waxy polish. This is very, very good indeed. Pure and stylish on the palate, supple and rounded, harmonious with brilliant style and great grip towards the end. A super wine. 17.5+/20 (February 2010)

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Rouge à Nicolas 2007: From chalky soils, harvested at about 40 hl/ha, fermented in tronconic vats and then raised in demi-muids. Rather warm fruit on the nose, dark in style, rather reminiscent of cherries. A very soft style of fruit on the palate, although it has structure too. Lots of grip, substantial tannin, with a firm body. I think this is a very good wine which needs time in bottle to knit together. 17+/20 (February 2010)

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray 2005: In the glass it has a fairly pale hue, nothing out of the ordinary. The nose, though, does offer something quite special; although it carries the fresh, grassy, gooseberry fruit of the Sauvignon Blanc there is also an evident seam of minerality, like gunpowder or powdered rocks. This is a wine of considerable aromatic depth and interest. The palate has a fresh vibrancy that I adore, with a firm weight and presence in the mouth. Through the midpalate it maintains this fresh, mineral acidity and it stays lively to the finish, where it lingers a little while. This is a wine of character which is delicious for drinking now, but which will surely improve over a year or two in the cellar. Excellent. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18/20 (March 2008)

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray Rouge 2003: This wine has an appealing depth of colour in the glass, perhaps reflecting the warmth of the vintage. Nice aromas on the nose, cherry-beetroot fruit with little nuances of mushroom. On the palate it seems somewhat detached, lean, ungiving, although at times there are little flurries of pleasure when the wine seems to pick up a little body to compensate for the prominent acidity. Nice flavour though, if a little earthy and perhaps rather coarsely presented. 14.5/20 (May 2006) Label

Pascal & Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Rouge 2002: This wine has a pale raspberry red hue in the glass, with a grey-orange rim, and is quite transparent. On the nose it offers some very feral, horsy, furry, cherry Pinot fruit which carries through onto the palate, where there is rather a coarse, cottony feel. It has a rather rustic character, with a lean yet oil-trimmed texture lying over a seam of tannins which have a rather simple air. This offers an interesting view of what Pinot Noir can do in the hills around Sancerre, but I find this wine to be more of academic interest than pleasurable. 13.5/20 (May 2006) Label