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Domaine d’Avrillé Coteaux de l’Aubance 2025

A few years ago, exploring the vineyards around Brissac-Quincé in the eastern reaches of the Anjou region, in the company of Antoine Daviau of Domaine de Bablut, we came to a stop at the foot of a great expanse of vines.

The slope, entirely covered with vines in full leaf, ran down a gentle incline to the copse of trees which stood just behind us, within which there ran a bubbling stream, the Aubance. The vista across the tops of the vines was made all the more dramatic for the building situated near the top of the slope. Rising up from the ground there was an imposing three-storey château, tall and narrow, and built of local Turonian limestone. This in itself was noteworthy; we were standing on the very edge of the Paris basin, where limestone buildings are increasingly rare. Most old châteaux and churches in this part of the world are built from local stone, mainly schist, sometimes with slate or even quartz.

This proud building glimmered a creamy white in the autumn sunshine, stood guard before a collection of viticultural buildings and mature trees.

I had just set eyes on Château d’Avrillé.

On that day I did not call in on the château, and its residents the Biotteau family; I continued my viticultural tour with Antoine, before we returned to his domaine to taste with his father, Christophe. Later that day we tasted his 1944 Coteaux de l’Aubance Rosé de Cabernet together, made by his grandfather René – a memorable moment. Nevertheless, ever since that day I have had the property in the back of my mind, and as it turns out they make some pretty smart wines. As evinced by this week’s Weekend Wine choice, the 2025 Coteaux de l’Aubance from Domaine d’Avrillé.

Domaine d'Avrillé Coteaux de l'Aubance 2025

The modern-day story of Château d’Avrillé begins in the 1930s, although it is worth knowing that this privileged site has a well-documented ancient history stretching back to at least the 14th century, when it was the seat of the seigneurie of Avrillé. The château buildings include a 16th-century tower, and a chapel was added in 1641 (I remain unsure if it still stands). The imposing château was erected in 1730. The home of lords and cardinals, it was sold as a bien national after confiscation during the Revolution, and passed through a number of hands before coming to the modern-day proprietors.

The Biotteau family’s lineage at the estate began with Eusèbe Biotteau, who purchased the property in 1938. He continued here through to the 1980s, gradually ceding control to his son and grandson. Today, the fourth generation of the Biotteau family is in charge, great-grandsons Charles-Eusèbe and Alexis Biotteau. The property turns out the traditional range of Anjou wines, a selection of dry whites, rosés and reds, sparkling wines and, of course, several sweet wines with the Coteaux de l’Aubance appellation.

This 2025 Coteaux de l’Aubance from Domaine d’Avrillé displays an attractive peachy hue with a good depth of colour in the glass, suggesting a little concentration here. And the aromatics are classic Ligérian moelleux, combining concentrated fruit elements suggestive of sweet peach, apricot and mirabelle, along with the zesty freshness of ripe but non-concentrated fruit, with hints of orange, melon and white pepper. The palate follows with a sweet and polished style, very nicely delineated and full of energy, with the dense peach and apricot fruit of the nose coming through here, lifted by the same fresher nuances. It has a ripe sweetness giving density to the midpalate, which comes wrapped up in a pithy grip with good acidity. I suspect it is a négoce cuvée, or a label created specifically for la grande distribution in France; either would explain the use of domaine rather than château on the label. In either case, it is delicious. Drink now and over the next five to ten years. The alcohol is 11.5% on the label. 92/100

This is a delicious entry-level Coteaux de l’Aubance which will not disappoint. After a challenging 2023 vintage when Chenin had a hard time, and a near-impossible 2024 vintage that was a washout, this illustrates very nicely the value of the 2025 vintage for moelleux wines. It’s not surprising to see some early releases in this style. If you see one, give it a try! (26/10/26)

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