Yannick Amirault, 2023 Update
When the Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil appellations were first signed off, on the same day in 1937 (July 31st, if you’re interested), they prescribed the cultivation of solely Cabernet Franc, used for the production of red and rosé wines.
Well, that’s almost true. In fact both appellations permit blends led by Cabernet Franc, with Cabernet Sauvignon the secondary variety, and the regulations are the same in Chinon and Saumur. It was a practical solution to the morphological similarities expressed by these two varieties; anyone who thought they were planting a new parcel of Cabernet Franc was almost certainly planting a mix of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. These days, however, just abut everybody focuses on Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Sauvignon does not ripen so well on these cool limestone soils, and the regional focus for this variety is downstream, on the warmer metamorphic soils of Anjou.
One variety you won’t find mentioned in the Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil regulations, however, is Chenin Blanc. Unlike Saumur and Chinon, white varieties were not authorised here, despite being part of the vinous heritage of both appellations, Chenin Blanc having been cultivated round Bourgueil during the 19th century. Those vignerons wishing to add a white to their portfolio typically look west, acquiring a parcel or two in the Anjou or Saumur regions. There is another approach though, and that is simply to stop worrying about appellation rules, plant the variety you want to, and market the wine on your name and reputation for quality.
And so, say hello to Bâtard-Princesse, a new cuvée of Chenin Blanc by Yannick and Benoît Amirault, the vines planted on a prestigious south-facing slope within the limits of the Bourgueil appellation.
Of course, I did taste a number of the most recent releases in red as well, including Les Malgagnes (with and without the Amphore designation), Le Grand Clos, Les Quartiers and more besides. Read on for more.
