Château de Tracy, 2022 Update
It is a long time since I first visited Château de Tracy, perhaps one of the best known properties of the entire Pouilly-Fumé appellation. I was immediately taken by its age-worn facade. So many châteaux in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley have been restored to the point of perfection, some of them look as though they might have been built last year, or maybe just teleported in from the nearest Disney theme park. Not so Château de Tracy, the dark and shadowy walls of which seemed to me to ooze centuries of history. You don’t need a degree in archaeology to see this place is old.
At the time the proprietor was Comte Henry d’Estutt d’Assay, a tall and wiry individual who wore his noble title lightly. Only a few years later, however, Henry had been ousted and replaced by his sister, Juliette d’Estutt d’Assay. Henry left and established a small négociant business under his own name, and I confess it is now quite a few years since I last set eyes on him. Meanwhile, now in charge of the family’s wine business, Juliette has also started looking beyond the borders of Pouilly-Fumé for new sources of fruit. The result has been Tracy & Cie, her own négociant business based at the property. And so alongside her various cuvées of Pouilly-Fumé Juliette now also bottles and sells wines from the Menetou-Salon and Touraine appellations.
On this most recent encounter with the wines of this property, I had the opportunity to taste not only the most recent releases from Château de Tracy, but also some new wines released under the Tracy & Cie label.