Checking in on Domaine Tessier, 2025
The planting of the Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny vineyards can be attributed partly to Henry III (1551 – 1589), and partly to the Canal de Briare (opened in 1642). Henry’s role was to express displeasure at the lacklustre state of the wines poured at the royal table in Paris, which prompted parliament to ban the production of wine within 20 leagues of the capital. Viticulteurs and merchants were forced to look further afield, and two principal regions benefitted; the first was Champagne, the second was the loop of the Loire east of Tours, both ripe for further planting.
The canal, meanwhile, facilitated the transport of the wines by boat, from the Loire to the Seine via the new canal which connected the two waterways, and then on to Paris.
Of course this was in ancient times. That the appellations exist today can be attributed to a handful of leading vignerons who have carried the flame for Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny through the 20th and 21st centuries. These include the Gendrier family at Domaine des Huards, present here for many generations, as noted by Thomas Layton in my recent Domaine des Huards report. As well as the Quenouix family of Domaine de Veilloux, who have been here since the early 20th century, and François Cazin, a fourth-generation vigneron tending vines at Le Petit Chambord.
Another name to know is Tessier. The domaine was established by Roger Tessier in 1961, and handed to his son Philippe Tessier twenty years later. Having had his hand on the tiller for the best part of four decades it is Philippe who is most strongly associated with the estate. Having said that, the mantle has recently been passed to the next generation, Simon Tessier (pictured below with wife Marie) in 2020. A domaine long certified organic, earlier this year I met up with Simon and Marie to taste some of their current releases.
