Château de Targé, 2019 Update
Château de Targé has a wonderful position, perched halfway up the limestone côte which look down on the waters of the Loire, to the east of the town of Saumur. The estate has a fascinating history, the Targé and then the Pisani-Ferry families having been heavily occupied in French politics, the military, philanthropy and one, Edgard Pisani, played a significant role in the liberation of Paris during World War II. And when they’re not doing all that, they also make a little wine.
Today the domaine is run by Édouard Pisani-Ferry and his son Paul (pictured above). The style remains rather reserved and traditional, even more so than it did during the 1990s and early years of the 21st century. At this time Quintessence, a cuvée created by Édouard in 2004 on the advice of Pierre Seillan of Château Lassègue, an old friend, was often one of the best buys within the appellation, along with the cuvée Lisagathe from Philippe Vatan of Château du Hureau. These days this cuvée is perhaps outclassed by a number of other high-flying reds produced within the appellation. Having said that, the sparkling wines always seem interesting, the three years spent sur lattes giving them an attractive sheen. And there is quality here in white as well; I recall ranking the oaked white Les Fresnettes very highly when I tasted it blind in a Decanter panel tasting a couple of years. So this remains an interesting domaine to know.
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