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Saumur So Bio, 2022: The Whites

Saumur So Bio 2022

On paper, the notion of driving up from Bordeaux to my house in the Loire Valley for the weekend seemed like a brilliant idea. It is a fairly straightforward drive along a quiet autoroute, and I wanted to call in on the vignerons of Saumur So Bio, a group of organically-minded individuals who would be showing their wines that weekend. A change of scene – from the heady Merlots of St Emilion and Pomerol, to the perfumed Cabernet Francs of Saumur, not to mention the many Chenin Blancs of course – would be a welcome one.

By late on Friday night, however, I was instead questioning my sanity. The wisdom of ending a long day of tasting in Bordeaux with a three-hour drive north is certainly up for debate. Doubly so, given that I had found myself on an unfamiliar route nationale, surrounded by heavy Friday-evening traffic, in the pouring rain. For three unrelenting hours. I finally arrived, my knuckles white from gripping the steering wheel. I slowly prised them away from the vinyl, one digit at a time.

Saumur So Bio 2022

Of course, by the next morning all this had been forgotten, and I spent the best part of two days tasting and chatting with many of the region’s vignerons including some up-and-coming names and some noteworthy new discoveries. My reports from these tastings come in four instalments. In a flurry of eager enthusiasm I have already published the first; I was so impressed with the wines of David Foubert, of La Folle Berthe, that I have already written them up in a separate profile. I have since met David again, just a few weeks ago, to taste some other vintages and cuvées, and was pleased to find my first impressions were correct. He makes good wines, with notable quality in red as well as white. I will be updating his profile with my new tasting notes in due course.

The remaining three instalments come now. First up, two large back-to-back reports on the wines tasted, starting here with the whites, and then continuing in part two with the reds. In the fourth and final instalment I report on a small masterclass featuring a handful of wines from the 2017 and 2012 vintages in Saumur. First, however, a few words on Saumur So Bio.

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