Domaine Mélaric, 2015 Update
There are few more exciting moments than discovering a new name in an appellation. That first encounter with a previously unfamiliar young (or sometimes old) vigneron, the first chance to taste their wines, and then that first realisation that these wines are really, really good. And then, as the palate continues to fire off messages to the amygdalae provoking thoughts of sentiment, emotion and maybe even beginning the laying down of a memory or two, you suddenly ask yourself – why have I never met this person before? How come the name of this domaine isn’t being shouted from the rooftops for all to hear? And most importantly; where can I find some of these wines for my own cellar?
This was the feeling I had after my first meeting with Aymeric Hilaire (pictured) just a year or two ago. His white wines are cool and minerally, his reds warm but reserved and elegant. On the occasion of this more recent tasting the wines remained true to this style, although the Mélaric portfolio has expanded considerably. This is of course another feature of domaines led by young and dynamic vignerons such as Aymeric; they are always evolving, with new vineyards coming online, new cuvées in the making. This is also exciting, and it was certainly a feature of this tasting.
The Wines
Aymeric poured three white cuvées, all Saumur Blanc, starting with the latest addition to the range, Les Fontanelles in the 2013 vintage. Fans of the wines of Saumur Puy-Notre-Dame will perhaps recognise the name of this vineyard, and indeed until recently these vines were closely associated with Philippe Gourdon of Château Tour Grise. Philippe seems to have found himself in possession of too many vines though, and so he decided a year or two ago that he would rent out Les Fontanelles. Of the 1.8 hectares, Aymeric is now tending half, while the remaining 0.9 hectares is being rented by the team at Clau de Nell. The 2013 Les Fontanelles has lovely primary fruit at present, laced with minerals, and although it needs time to shake off its oak it has plenty of potential.
