Domaine Masson-Blondelet, 2022 Update
As I have also noted with Alain Cailbourdin, whose wines I provided an update on very recently, this is another domaine which seems to me to be both under-rated and too frequently overlooked. Nevertheless, undaunted by the shadows cast by more cultish names in the appellation, brother and sister team Pierre-François and Mélanie Masson fashion an array of attractive wines, frequently of very fine quality indeed, and which reflect all the classic terroirs of the Pouilly-Fumé appellation.
I met up with Pierre-François and Mélanie in early 2022, our first meeting for a few years (for obvious reasons), to taste their latest releases. Although you might expect the focus to be on 2021 Pierre-François poured only two wines from this vintage, on which I have already reported in my Loire 2021 First Taste report. The vintages on which Pierre-François chose to focus were 2020, 2019 and 2018. There was a very good reason for this, and for once it was not down to the devastating frost in 2021; in fact this choice of wines was a consequence of the frost in 2016. As Pierre-François (pictured below) explained;
“The frost in 2021 was nowhere near as bad as it was in 2016. In truth the worst thing about 2021 for us was the hail, which cut a path across Tracy-sur-Loire and which was very damaging. Even so, we still had a good yield, of about 40 hl/ha.”
Hail has only a bit-part in the story of the 2021 vintage, which will always be remembered more for its devastating frost, but for those regions which were hit – including parts of Pouilly-Fumé and the Touraine appellations – it was devastating. Pierre-François continued;Please log in to continue reading: