Lise et Bertrand Jousset, 2015 Update
Lise and Bertrand Jousset are part of the Montlouis-sur-Loire vanguard, the small band of viticulteurs who have helped to lift the appellation from obscurity to one which can challenge the dominance of Vouvray, and indeed some would say usurp it from its position as the pre-eminent white appellation of Touraine. The generals leading this small band of revolutionaries have names such as Chidaine and Blot, but let us not overlook the foot soldiers, Lise and Bertrand being among their number. Literally so, in Bertrand’s case; he spent many years serving in the French army before putting down roots in Montlouis-sur-Loire.
The domaine has always been run in a thoughtful manner, an early undertaking being the digging of test pits to understand their terroir. Thereafter they have gone over into organics, and from 2015 the domaine will be run on entirely biodynamic principles.
The Wines
It is a year or two since I tasted many wines from these two. Sadly this most recent tasting was a small affair, but as compensation for the limited quantity, the quality of the wines poured by Lise (pictured) was admirable. And the wines were fascinating too, in particular the 2014 Pétillant Naturel Rose à Lies, a Gamay-Grolleau blend I don’t recall tasting before. Being bright, acid-fresh and vivacious, this wine brought a smile to my face. Indeed I can’t imagine it failing to bring a smile to anybody’s face; it is the archetypal Pét Nat, fun, fresh and ready for a frolic. The 2013 Montlouis-sur-Loire Brut Nature, 100% Chenin, is perhaps the more serious wine, a more vinous effort, made using the méthode traditionnelle, and as suggested by Nature not softened by sugar. I found it charming, but perhaps rather shy in the presence of its more outgoing pink friend.
