The Wines of Laura David, 2024
After reports on two relatively well-established domaines in Vouvray, those of Damien Pinon and the Vigneau-Chevreau family, I now head south – crossing the Loire – to report on some current releases from a much more recent arrival in the appellation of Montlouis-sur-Loire.
The young vigneronne in question is Laura David; it was in 2017 she set up in some cellars in Lussault-sur-Loire, one of the three communes eligible for the Montlouis-sur-Loire appellation. Like one or two others in the appellation (I am thinking of the range of wines offered by Damien Delecheneau and Xavier Weisskopf – although in truth both are based outside the appellation), rather than focusing purely on Chenin Blanc Laura takes advantage of the broad variety of cultivars still tended in this corner of the Loire Valley in order to produce a broader range of styles. This viticultural diversity is a throwback to centuries past when, while Vouvray was already established as a source of fine white wines, the reputation enjoyed by Montlouis-sur-Loire also rested on its Cabernets, Gamays and other wines.
Even up to the time of phylloxera the vineyards were a patchwork of different varieties, and while the post-phylloxera replanting naturally focused on Chenin Blanc this freewheeling spirit still lives on. As a consequence Laura tends several parcels of other varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Côt and Chardonnay.
I have been hoping to get to grips with the wines of Laura David for some time, and was therefore grateful when the opportunity presented itself earlier this year.
