Bordeaux 2015 Primeurs: Margaux
I think it would be inappropriate to begin my primeurs report on the Margaux appellation in the 2015 vintage anywhere other than Château Margaux. This is not merely to do with the quality of the wine in 2015, which is excellent, but as I am sure readers are already aware the primeurs were tinged with tragedy this year, when news broke just a few days before the tastings of the death of Paul Pontallier, the life force of Château Margaux and its wines for more than three decades.
Paul was just 59 years of age, too young by far. His achievements should not be underestimated. It is widely acknowledged that during the 1970s Château Margaux was underperforming, and Paul – who started here in 1983 – was an instrumental member of the team that turned this wayward château around. Once success had been grasped, he proceeded to push quality ever higher, and this will be his true legacy. Ever since I first met him, not quite a decade ago, I was impressed by his talents and his achievements, as well as his mesmerising presentation skills which were little less than hypnotic. Paul could have said that sky was orange, and that grass was purple, and you would have nodded appreciatively before thinking to yourself, “you know, he might have something there”.
I have already written an appreciation of Paul Pontallier (pictured, a photograph taken three years ago, in April 2013), and I would prefer here instead to convey Paul’s words on the 2015 vintage.
