Bordeaux 2015 at Two Years: St Emilion Grand Cru Classé & Grand Cru
While my report on the premier grand cru classé wines from St Emilion was stuffed with superb wines which even the most level-headed of Bordeaux drinkers should covet, only the most hardened label-drinkers should overlook this report on the rest of the St Emilion appellation in this vintage.
I say this for two reasons. First, drinkers looking to bag the very best wines should be open-minded with regard to classifications, because without a doubt some of the wines I report on here equal or outstrip a number of their premier grand cru classé counterparts. Second, to my mind this is where the real value is to be found in this vintage. There are any number of estates here which, I would suggest, have in 2015 made their best wine ever, or at least the equal of it. And many of these wines sell for very fair prices compared to what the top estates of Bordeaux demand of our wallets today.
The Wines
First, let’s take a look at the serious contenders, the wines which, for whatever reason, are not ranked within the most recent incarnation of the St Emilion classification, and yet in terms of quality are clearly operating at that level. First up, Château Tertre-Roteboeuf is an absolute joy, a typically sinewy and savoury blend of olive and currant fruits, and I would buy this in preference to many more highly ranked wines. Those hunting for sheer quality should also look long and hard at the portfolio of Jonathan Maltus, within which there are some stunning wines, and not just the most famous names.
