Bordeaux 2009 at Four Years: Margaux
It is perhaps only natural to think of Margaux as a perennial under-achiever; I have certainly laid that criticism at this appellation’s door before now. And then unexpectedly, when all the stars are in alignment, suddenly everything comes good, and Margaux unexpectedly turns out a stunning collection of wines to beat any turned out in all Bordeaux. This was a peculiar phenomenon I first saw with the 1983 vintage; I wasn’t reviewing wines in their youth then, as I was of tender years and much more interested in partying, Merrydown Cider and the antics of Frankie Goes to Hollywood, but looking at 1983 Bordeaux a decade later it seemed clear that these were some of the better wines of the vintage. Better, in some cases, than what had been made during 1982, generally regarded as one of the great vintages of the 20th century.
So do we have a similar situation in 2009? Sadly, the answer to this question is no.
Now don’t get me wrong, because the wines of Margaux in the 2009 vintage are on the whole very good, and are indeed excellent in some case. But this is St Julien’s year I feel, and the wines from Margaux in some cases lag behind a little. Indeed, we have in 2009 and 2010 a situation to mirror that seen in 1982 and 1983. The 2009 vintage is my 1982-equivalent, and 2010 is our modern-day 1983. I suspect my report on the 2010 vintage at four years of age, coming later this year (or maybe early 2015), will drive home just how delicious the wines of this appellation can be in 2010. They are some of the best young wines from Margaux I have ever tasted.
