Bordeaux 2008 Primeurs: Mopping Up
After the famous communes of the left and right banks it is only right and natural that the ‘lesser’ appellations deserve some attention. As the time for tasting is limited, however, it is difficult to get a real feel for these less exalted appellations, even though they represent huge swathes of the Bordeaux wine-producing region. The truth is, although the cru classé estates of the Médoc, Sauternes and St Emilion, and the leading estates of Graves and Pomerol account for only a tiny proportion of the vineyards of Bordeaux, it is these properties – which probably only number two or three hundred – that we are most interested in. Indeed, I am already in receipt of an open letter from the proprietor of a St Emilion estate who is cross that I (and presumably others) didn’t taste his wine, or indeed the wines of his Grand Cru Classé peers (more on that tomorrow). If even at this level (the rung directly below the Premier Grand Cru Classé estates) the wines are struggling to get noticed, what chance does Fronsac and the Bordeaux-Côtes have?
This must seem galling for historically-knowledgeable proprietors in Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac who will be aware that this region of Bordeaux once comfortably outranked neighbouring St Emilion and Pomerol in terms of quality. As recently as the 18th Century the wines of Fronsac were frequently served in the French court, but with the arrival of phylloxera and the devastation of France’s vineyards Fronsac and the associated enclave Canon-Fronsac went into decline. Subsequently the region has seen hard times, hiding in the shadows of the limelight which today tends to focus on other right bank appellations. In recent years investment from elsewhere in Bordeaux and also from further afield has helped a number of properties, including La Vieille Cure – tasted in 2008 as noted below – and La Rivière.
