François Crochet: Tasting & Drinking
The proof of the pudding is in the eating (or in this case drinking) of course, and an examination of the wines of François Crochet quickly reveals that they are wines we should be excited about. The reds here are good, not overly rich, but savoury, quite reserved in style, and nicely balanced. The Réserve de Marcigoué is a definite step up from the domaine wine though, and worth the extra if it is red Sancerre you are after. I am less convinced by Les Marnes, admittedly, but have only tasted it in one very youthful vintage, so will reserve judgement for the moment.
The real draw for me though are the white wines, the house style being ripe and textured, confident but also vibrant and elegantly defined. On top of this we have the three major terroirs of Sancerre being presented in three individual cuvées, which adds interest. I used to ponder which cuvée was my favourite, although these days I am not sure this is relevant; the different cuvées are just that – different – and they probably need to be judged on their own merits, and how well they reflect their terroir. The Exils in particular shows a wonderful terroir-derived detailing, pure and filigree, but the two limestone cuvées also show a firm and bold substance in the mouth in keeping with their chalky origins. In short, these are wines of top quality, which deserve to be bought and enjoyed. (16/2/10, updated 14/3/14, 6/12/15)
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