François Chidaine: Tasting & Drinking
That François Chidaine resolutely converted the majority of his domaine to biodynamic viticulture, without one beat of the biodynamic drum in public – his labels carry no mention of the domaine’s status or certification – should say something about the character of the man. Whenever I spot him he looks resolute, serious and thoughtful and his methods are exacting, precise, perhaps even demanding. His wines I think reflect that, showing a precise, defined linearity that so often exceeds my expectations for Montlouis-sur-Loire (as do the wines of Jacky Blot). In Vouvray, however, a judgement of the wines is perhaps best served by a comparison between Chidaine’s wines, and those from the Poniatowski era.
The wines of the Poniatowski era will give – in the better vintages – much pleasure. Nevertheless, I think it is essential that we view these wines in the light of those now emanating from the same vineyards now under the direction of François Chidaine. Even in a vintage like 2007, not a strong season which yielded largely sec cuvées, the Chidaine wines showed a purity and freshness which is admirable. This is the Chidaine style, and it can be traced back through the vinification to the care that he exacts in the vineyard. His wines serve to show up those of the Poniatowski era for the under-performers that they are, wines that were undoubtedly regal but which lacked precision, definition and sometimes even a sense of cleanliness. Draw no conclusions about the wines from that era until you have tasted those of Chidaine, would be my advice. He has breathed new life into the famed Clos Baudoin.
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