Château La Fleur de Boüard: Tasting & Drinking
At Château La Fleur de Boüard, the Boüard family took a little-known Lalande-de-Pomerol estate and lifted it above what we would expect from the this appellation. It certainly illustrates the untapped potential that exists in this particular Bordeaux backwater, the soils of which have so much in common with Pomerol, just to the south. The wines are rich, dark, deeply coloured and deeply flavoured, the style being tense, spicy and savoury rather than the sweeter, more simple style than we might have expected. The wines age well, over the course of a decade at least, although I don’t have enough experience with older examples of the wines to comment on how they perform into old age. To be honest, though, I am not really sure that is the point of these wines.
These are, being frank, not wines for the faint of heart. The richness and texture within is not always tightly wrapped up in the structure of the wine, so when tasting them young I often find the tannins and oak on display for all to see (and taste). Having said that, while the have plenty of spice and grip, these are not austere wines. They are wines of bold extravagance, wines that will take control of your palate with all the confidence of an aging dominatrix (ooh-err!) should you allow them. This is especially true of the 100% Merlot super-cuvée Le Plus de la Fleur de Boüard, with its huge concentration backed up by the spicy oak that speaks of a long élevage in 100% new oak. They are not necessarily wines that will appeal to all, although the dedication, investment and effort that lies behind every bottle is undeniable. But they are certainly wines to be encountered, at least once.
Of recent efforts, the best follow the general ups-and-downs of Bordeaux vintages, so I favour 2022, 2020, 2019, 2016, 2015 and the like above other vintages. Having said that, the results in more challenging years such as 2021, 2017, 2014 and 2012 are pretty good, so don’t shy away from trying these wines in less exalted years. (20/11/14, updated 26/11/23)
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