Clos Manou: Tasting & Drinking
Having increased my coverage of the wines of the Médoc and Haut-Médoc in recent years, I have come across a number of hidden gems in these appellations, wines which provide a good-quality Bordeaux ‘hit’ for a fair spend, which is not something that can be said of so many of the classed growths found to the south. Without a doubt Clos Manou is one of this number, the wines dark, concentrated and savoury, yet simmering with freshness. Stéphane’s wines regularly come out near on top, or at least near the top, in my tastings of Médoc wines.
The 1850 Vignes Pre-Phylloxerique is clearly a very special wine, and is quite rightly the object of some adulation. While I would cherish a bottle, I can’t help my conclusion that tasting this and the ‘standard’ Clos Manou side by side, that I preferred the latter. This is something of a relief, as with only 900 bottles produced in a typical vintage, this is not a cuvée any of us are likely to chance cross when browsing the shelves of the local Tesco Express.
Of recent vintages, I found both 2022 and 2020 to be strong across the board, in keeping with the broad success in the region in these years. The 2021 grand vin also showed well, and should probably develop some charm in bottle. But I think, if the price were right, I would take a chance with any of Stéphane’s older vintages. Except maybe 2013 of course, but if you are reading this Bordeaux-focused website then I am sure you knew that already. (16/11/23)
