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Leitz Rüdesheimer Drachenstein Kabinett 2006
To
Germany this week,
and to be specific the Rheingau. This section of the Rhine, which lies roughly half-way along
its course as it flows towards the North Sea, is the result of a meeting between
river and mountain. The Rhine's smooth northward passage is blocked by the Taunus mountains,
and it must take a turn to the west; it continues on for about 30 kilometres
until it reaches the last peak, the Rüdesheimer Berg, at which point it turns north once more. The
right bank, as a consequence, has a southerly exposure which is an absolute must
for the optimal ripening of grapes at this northerly latitude. Along the bank of
river the vines stretch up the slopes, clustered between the many small
streams that run down to join the Rhine. The names of some of the vineyards are
evocative and will be well known to many even remotely familiar with German
wine; Schloss Vollrads, Schloss Johannisberg, Marcobrunn. Many of
the names of the vineyards - Jesuitgarten, Bischofsberg and the like - hint at ecclesiastical origins, and indeed, like many
other regions of Germany, for centuries these vines were tended by monks rather
than wealthy aristocrats. The contributions that these religious orders made
to the development of German viticulture should not be underestimated, as it was
in their hands that Riesling came to the predominance that it enjoys today, and
the vineyards around Schloss Johannisberg are reputedly the first in Germany to
have seen the harvest of nobly rotten grapes for the production of sweet wine.
When
it comes to the Drachenstein vineyard, however, the name perhaps fits with a
rather more Darwinian view of the earth's history than these religious orders
might wish to promulgate. Here, on the slopes of the Rüdesheimer Berg just above
the Bischofsberg, Berg Roseneck and Berg Rottland vineyards, there are
fossilised dinosaur prints, regarded by some as the origin of the vineyard's
name. This is a site rich in quartzite, a mineral which may perhaps contribute to the wine's
character, and indeed in many export markets wines from the vineyard are released by
Leitz under the name Dragonstone. In this week's wine, the 2006 vintage
of the Rüdesheimer Drachenstein Kabinett from
Josef Leitz, we see some of the
character that has made Leitz and his wines so popular in recent years. The nose
has the aroma of fresh rosemary, along with a sherbetty vibrancy of lime and
minerals, all of which give the wine a fresh, vivacious and frankly delicious
character. On the palate this vibrancy continues unabated. It carries a little
touch of sweetness, but it is the sherbetty, minerally, tingling acidity that
dominates the palate, and I love this. It continues into a fine, slightly sappy
finish amid lots of flavour and character. This is an excellent value which
offers plenty of pleasure, and which would make a truly refreshing
palate-reviver if it should become somewhat overfaced by rich foods in the
coming weeks. 17/20 AP
number: 24 079 008 07 (15/12/08)
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