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Frédéric Mabileau Lunatic 2022

While the Frédéric Mabileau domaine has long enjoyed a reputation for turning out some of the better examples of Bourgueil and St Nicolas de Bourgueil, something which remains true in current times, the domaine today has much more to offer.

Alongside an expanded portfolio – the family having expanded into white with the acquisition of vineyards in the not-too-distant appellations of Anjou and Saumur (neither Bourgueil nor St Nicolas de Bourgueil permitting anything other than red and rosé) – the family today one of very few true vigneron-run dining venues in the Loire Valley. It helps that one of the younger generations of the family – Charly Mabileau – is a talented and experienced chef; he runs the family’s restaurant, Chez Odette, with his wife Juliette.

Meanwhile, after Frédéric Mabileau’s passing back in 2020 it is another son, Rémy Mabileau, who has shouldered the responsibility for the family’s vineyards. And while he has continued with the portfolio of red and white wines, he has also developed one of the most intriguing and delicious ranges of pétillant naturel cuvées anywhere along the banks of the Loire. Of course they make the perfect apéro for freshly seated diners at Chez Odette, but I am happy to report you can also buy them to drink at home!

Frédéric Mabileau Lunatic 2022

The pétillant naturel corner of the Mabileau portfolio seems to be permanently evolving, with labels, blends and names coming and going with the passing of the vintages. Of those I have tasted over the past year, the 2022 Lunatic tasted here was one of the most enjoyable. In fact it was delicious.

In this vintage (more on why I am being so specific about the vintage further down the page) Lunatic is 100% Chenin Blanc, sourced from relatively young vines planted in 2008 on gravelly and sandy soils. The vines are cultivated using biodynamic methods, the domaine having been certified years ago, then picked by hand into small trays. The fermentation is natural, effected by indigenous yeasts, before being bottled mid-fermentation. Sulphite use is minimal; total sulphur dioxide concentration (if this sort of thing interests you, all the Mabileau wines including total sulphur dioxide concentration on the back label) in this vintage is 15 mg/l, a very low figure.

In the glass the 2022 Vin de France Lunatic from Frédéric Mabileau presents a shimmering but pale gold hue, with a persistent and plentiful central bead reflecting itself youthful status. The aromatics are pure, characterful and enticing, with notes of dried apple and fresh pear, candle smoke, waxed lemon and crushed chalk. It continues with a full and complete palate, building in definition and mineral intensity through the middle, the acidity, minerality and lively mousse working together to give this a real sense of drive and freshness, while never losing touch with the concentration of the fruit which is as evident on the palate as it is on the nose. It finishes short, but then don’t most pét nats? All in all this is a classy example of a pure-Chenin pétillant natural cuvée which has depth, richness and character, but also a seamless sense of harmony. Drink now. The alcohol is just 11.5% on the label. 92/100

And why was I being specific on the vintage? I see Rémy has decided to blend Chenin Blanc with the juice of Williams pears in the 2024 vintage, which might be a good response to that season’s rather lacklustre weather.  A wine and perry hybrid? I’m interested! I look forward to giving in a try, maybe when I next head back to Chez Odette. (4/5/26)

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