Pol Roger Brut 1998: This wine has a great bead, very lively, and there is plenty of it. It is seemingly quite well matured already on the nose, the initial yeastiness has gone, and it now seems warm and welcomely nutty. This is followed up by a seductive palate which has an underlying firmness rather than being totally soft. It has good finesse, and some grip towards finish. There is lots of substance here although it always keeps its rounded, creamy, textured harmony. A very complete wine right through to finish, this is delicious and has shown really very good development. Ready now. 17.5+/20

Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling 1998: From half bottles. Crystal clear pale golden wine. An impressive nose, pure but very forceful and expressive, brimming with lime fruit character and a decent seam of rocky, minerality. Very full and weighty on the palate, dry and with good grip beneath the appealing flesh. Some good substance here, and plenty of peppery spice rounding up on the end. Quite gently composed, balanced somewhat zippy acidity, broad and with a little punch at the finish, this is really lovely. Although last time (four years ago) I suggested it wasn't ageworthy, I think this should be fine for years yet. 17+/20

Zind Humbrecht Pinot Gris Heimbourg 1998: A couple of years have passed since I last tasted this wine. The nose is certainly less exuberantly fruit-filled than I recall, and it shows more complex notes of bacon, face cream, pear and vanilla. The palate has a fine weight and definition, packed with the detailed flavours suggested by the nose, with a very whole, complete, vanilla and cream-tinged character. Beautifully composed, slightly white-peppery with soft acidity, but above all rich and of considerable substance, this is remarkably good wine. Like the Hengst Gewurztraminer that follows, a hugely exotic and flashy wine that tends to domineer on the palate, but all the same, this is really good as an occasional treat. 17/20

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Hengst 1998: Unbelievably it seems as though, reviewing my notes, that it is over three years since I last tasted this wine. It has only improved in that time, with wonderful complexity on the nose now, bacon and lychee dominating, but with plenty of minerality too. This comes through on the palate which has a huge seam of white pepper give the midpalate plenty of lift, which it needs as I cannot deny this has a huge, weighty, double-cream texture. It isn't so sweet per se any more(although it certainly isn't dry!), but it certainly has lots of fat and substance. Later on it seemed a little disjointed and displayed some bare alcohol, but this was as much an interaction with food served than any element of the wine itself. I enjoyed drinking this wine, although it is something I appreciate as a rare and opulent treat rather than something I could drink everyday. All the same, excellent. 18/20

Rossignol-Jeanniard Aloxe-Corton 1998: A moderate depth of colour at the core, although close to crystal clear at the rim. A pleasant nose at first, showing some rather spicy cherry fruit, but this gives way to a woody, stalky character which although a little hot also has a touch of greenness to it. It has some flesh at the beginning, and does maintain some substance throughout, but there is also a drying, tannic grip doing its best to counter this impression. It has a rather flat texture that I feel depends more on the alcohol than other components of the wine, but there is some nice acidity. It just feels rather forced and yet directionless. I don't find a lot here that appeals. 13/20

Rossignol-Jeanniard Volnay Santenots 1998: A rather attractive colour, rather pale when poured into the glass but it has a good depth at the core. Some maturity at the rim. The nose is characterful and deeply scented, and is certainly a step up from the Aloxe-Corton, with violets, cherry, dust, smoked meats, barbecue and twigs, it is delightful and aromatic. Lovely flesh, rounded and a little svelte, but with substance and texture. It loses it a bit in the midpalate which is a touch hard and austere, when it has all been so appealing and integrated up to this point. But it has good backbone and firm tannins which carry through from here to the finish, and a little touch of sweetness at the finish to counterbalance the firm structure. Very enjoyable (an opinion perhaps coloured a little by low expectations) and still on the way up. 16.5+/20

Robert Chevillon Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chaignots 1998: A quite transparent appearance, with a pale and slightly watery rim, but at its core the wine has a good hue. The nose initially offers a lot of appeal, with fruit aromas to the fore, intense black cherry notes with a dense, black raspberry character. Then more secondary elements come to the fore as the fruit fades, notes of horses and pigskin, with a fairly dense, furry, meaty overtone. The palate feels a touch stripped out on entry, showing bare structure, impact but without any sensitivity. The wine carries a rather bare and somewhat disjointed raft of alcohol at present, with not much softness, texture or warmth to accompany it. It feels rather mechanised. I suspect there my be a little more pleasure with more time in the cellar, but right now this has a rather brawny side which doesn't appeal. 15.5+?/20

Robert Chevillon Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Perrières 1998: A good colour, moderately deep, dusky red, leading out to pale, watery rim. The nose, however, is really beautiful, with fresh aromatics leaping out of the glass. Initially it is redolent of black cherries, apple and blackcurrant, then more funk, aromas of bacon and animal fur. Lovely fresh, mineral tinged palate, with crisply acidic fruit, blackberries and blackcurrants and apples again. If it is lacking in anything, it would benefit from a little more concentration through the midpalate, but there is plenty of appeal here; there is a nice texture, quite broad in the mouth, with an appealing supple substance underneath the fruit. Good strawberry fruit, laced with a little tannin, on the finish. Very good. 16.5+/20

Robert Chevillon Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Roncières 1998: This wine doesn't have a very rich colour, although what pigment it carries has a very deep hue. The nose is enticing, attractive and fairly rich. It is somewhat high-toned, which I like, a touch minty, with a lot of spicy, underbrushy fruit with a good mushroomy edge. There is a really good weight on the palate, fleshy but balanced, with a good structure underneath. Lots of substance through the midpalate, a touch forceful perhaps, but a good, fresh sappy style. Some texture and grit to it. Really very good and surely the best wine of the three Chevillons tasted here, and demonstrates that although not in the possession of the greatest finesse there are certainly some successes in Burgundy in this vintage. Very good indeed. 17+/20

Georges Mugneret Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chaignots 1998: A deep colour, still with plenty of red pigment, quite deep in hue as well. The nose opens out with an hour or so in the glass, showing oily-dusty red cherries, old polished wood, herbs and more. It has vigour and is very expressive, and these characteristics are found on the palate which has definition and life. It has a soft and slightly chalky top layer, but beneath that there is vigorous fruit still, with woody undergrowth and a slightly burnt edge. There is plenty of substance here, and lovely force and fresh acidity right through to the finish. This is very good indeed, and has plenty of potential for the cellar yet. 17.5+/20

Georges Mugneret Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Vignes Rondes 1998: Plenty of pigment here, a deep red hue, showing quite some maturity though, fading a little in a wide rim. Nose initially a blast of cherry fruit, black cherries, then dust, macerated fruits, some wood, a little mushroom and stalky undergrowth. Full texture, quite weighty, a little grippy too. Broad, mouthfilling, with nice chalky-floury substance to it. Plenty of character here, good depth, some pleasing development but this still has more to give I think as there is a good structure, and still a decent balance of fruit. Plenty of development with time in the glass, showing notes of liquorice, stale coffee grounds, tar, a little floral too and it then begins to display a fresh and lively definition which I enjoy. This is really very good indeed. 17.5+/20

Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 1998: It seems like years since I last opened a bottle of this, but I see it was in fact a little over a year ago when I lined this up against the Chapelle of the same vintage. This certainly has an aromatically interesting nose, with a slightly high-toned character, carrying along a raft of burnt and sweet meat which sits with some bright and acidic berry fruit, alongside some more nebulous scents, a sort of confected yet leafy cherry and a little candy cough sweet. The palate still has a nice flesh, and is holding up nicely, with a rounded weight and peppy acidity. It has some grip towards the finish, so the wine has a good presence in the mouth, but in terms of development it is certainly well into a tertiary stage. Good wine, but there will be no major further improvement here I think. This is telling, when one considers that the Thalaberts of old would age for a couple of decades, and still look good. 16.5/20

Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 1998: A nice colour here, although it is already showing the elegant mahogany tones of maturity. The nose also shows plenty of development, with a little stewed fruit at first, then a more smoky, meaty and slightly dry-dusty character. The palate seems to show a little more flesh and weight than I recall, and the wine certainly has some substance, although this is countered by some very firm acidity and a continued seam of tannins. There are plenty of good points here, although when drinking it I can't help thinking of what might have been in such a great vintage. Nevertheless this wine is certainly giving more pleasure, and as I suggested last time it is certainly on the way up. And with that firm acidity I think it may go for a very long time, even if it never achieves greatness, although it is without doubt very approachable now. A good wine. 17+/20

Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape 1998: I approached this wine with trepidation; I knew it was in the line-up, and had memories of it from my previous tasting of 1998 Châteauneuf du Pape. This bottle, however, showed somewhat better than that furry-seashell infused offering, and on this tasting it certainly outshines the Chantemerle below. This bottle still has a rather feral edge to the fruit, deep and brawny in character, but it certainly seems more appropriate than last time. More importantly perhaps, the palate has alongside the depth of meaty, spicy fruit, with its little nuance of soy sauce, an impressive and vibrant lift, reflecting a pleasing, peppery acidity on the midpalate. There is a gritty substance to it, which gives it a good presence on the palate. This wine seems much more composed tonight, with nicely defined character and even some ripe tannins yet to integrate. Much more approachable. Good. 15.5/20

Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape Chantemerle 1998: I have to confess this is one wine I approach with trepidation, having experienced it before. It has a deep colour. The nose has many of the elements that I have previously noted, namely aromas of roast beef, balsamic vinegar, treacle and the like. The palate is soft and textured, with a fat and creamy presence, carrying some roasted and slightly high-toned flavours. It has a baked, slippery, oily feel and this struggles even in the face of decent acidity; there is just no freshness here. There are some bitter notes on the finish, and here it seems very disjointed too, with overt alcohol that has me wondering - at some moments - whether I am drinking a gin & tonic rather than a glass of wine. As I noted previously, a true casualty - to my palate - of the vintage. 14?/20

Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes 1998: A darkly coloured wine, with an early maturing hue. Unlike some of the preceding wines the nose here has a freshness at its core, although there is no doubting that it also has plenty of ripe characteristics; there are baked cherries, roasted game meats, The palate starts off elegantly, although it displays more substance through the midpalate; it is always weighty and full, with piles of character. Alongside the dense, macerated, baked fruit and roasted, animalistic notes there is a structure, a seam of ripe tannins, a grippiness. But there are little angular notes too, a well-hidden chalkiness, but these are minor elements. As I commented previously, this has a very brawny style and it will be fascinating to see how this does in the cellar. I don't mind having a few more bottles in order to do just that. Perhaps of interest is the fact that I kept a little back and retasted after 24 hours, when it showed much more freshness and purity. It would be fine by me if this sort of transformation could be mimicked in the cellar! 17.5+/20

Prieuré de St Jean de Bebian Coteaux du Languedoc 1998: A mature colour here, but still with a lot of dense pigment. Smoky, meaty, cigar and tobacco-laced fruit on the nose, and clearly plenty of appeal and interest. It has a lovely and supple texture and very complete composition on entry, with a structured texture through the midpalate and finish. There follows a deeply fruited character, with good grip underneath. It seems gentle, balanced and fresh, well defined rather than rich or velvety, with a stylish coating of tannin at the finish. It has a leaner feel than I recall from earlier in the year, but it has a dry extract which compounds this. Perhaps still with potential to age, thanks to its persistent and smoky, cigarry tannins. Very good indeed. 17.5+/20

Domaine Richeaume Syrah (Côtes de Provence) 1998: Surprisingly it is three years since I opened a bottle of this, and I know in the interim I gave one away as a gift. A good rich hue here, not a lot of maturity showing, this is deep and well pigmented. The nose is delicious, enticing, complex and deep, with smoke and hot embers, savoury fruit, twigs and more. This is very impressive, and the quality is maintained on the palate, which has a perfect balance; substance, flesh, a ripe tannic backbone and a great acidity. It persists, broadens, and shows more delicate complexity here, with notes of flowers, violets and more. Delicious sappy finish, this is really excellent wine and I am very sorry this is the last of my bottles - and that I gave one away! 18/20

Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine 1998: This is a quite remarkable wine. It has a fine, dark hue in the glass, although there is maturity here too, a deep oxblood tone which is very evident just at the rim. The nose, however, is just beautiful, showing a fresh, clean and well-defined character which fails to betray this wine's ten years of age. It has a fine, perfumed, violet bouquet, with a charcoaly, stony, mineral edge, but also deep, rich and ripe mature fruit. It seems savoury, elegant, pure and crystalline all in the same breath. I find it quite captivating, certainly enticing at the very least, The palate has a fine and fresh character which reflects that found on the nose, with a pure seam of ripe, coaly tannin, with perfumed fruit. Fresh, firm, sinewy in its substance, pure and also elegant, this has a really fabulous style and I suspect it will go for years in the cellar yet, improving with time. But it is superbly approachable, and certainly delicious, right now. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 18.5+/20

Nicolas Joly Savennières Becherelle 1998: A moderately deeply coloured, golden wine. The nose is enticing, with fresh aromas of golden honeycomb and cinder toffee, smoke and gunpowder, minerals and straw. These characteristics carry through onto the palate, which shows a fine mineral vein and a fresh, lively character. It doesn't have the same depth as the grand vin, although I haven't had the chance to compare within this vintage, but although the intensity is perhaps lacking it more than makes up for this with light, delicacy and balance. Most of all it is savoury and it works very well with food. Complex, nuanced and with a broad, slightly bitter grip at the finish. It has length too. This isn't a great vintage for the Loire, and Joly comes in for some serious (perhaps deserved) stick regarding the wines of Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, but I find this particular wine to be really very good indeed. 17/20

Chateau de Fesles Bonnezeaux 'F de Fesles' 1998: This is the second wine of Chateau Fesles, perhaps one of the top estates in the Bonnezeaux appellation. It has an attractive golden hue, and a very typical nose, of honey, beeswax, mineral and quince. A good texture and weight are immediately apparent on the palate, which is rich yet firm and structured, deeply flavoursome, warm and rounded. There is a good grip, and also a soft, slightly peppery acidity. It does not have the direction that one might look for in the grand vin, nor the precision, but it has good flavour and there is a little appealing freshness to it all the same. It finishes up with a nice undercurrent of slightly bitter botrytis at the finish, and there is a little length. A good wine. 16.5+/20

Clos Triguedina Cahors 'Prince Probus' 1998: A wonderfully deep, very dense, red-black hue when poured into the glass. The nose starts off with flower petals and sweet roasted meats, but always with a layer of densely compacted fruit beneath, with a seam of smoke, minerals and more. Pure, with a wonderfully velvety texture on the palate, although it is still bound up with a wealth of tannins and grip. Firm acids too, but tied in with all this power and structure there is floral fruit, great substance, a huge potential and a lovely presence on the palate, even if there is still so much tannin. Lovely now, but there is greater finesse due in the future I think. 17.5+/20

Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett 1998: This wine has a clear and shimmering hue. On the nose it has a great intensity, with deeply concentrated aromas of minerals and limes presented in a laser-like fashion, although with a very forceful precision rather than one that is bright and delicate. There is a waxy edge to it, as I have previously noted, but limes and green apples are the predominant features. It has a lovely weight on the palate, fresh but showing plenty of substance, undercut by vibrant, sparky acidity. Great minerality, like powdered rocks and chalk. Beautiful freshness and balance. This is really very, very good indeed. 17.5+/20 AP number: 3 536 014 10 99

Alfred Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 1998: A clear and green-tinged hue, not displaying any age at all. Very overt Riesling quality, lots of lime, lime pickle, lime oil, lime leaf and other limey things. But there are little notes of richness too, honey on toast, even a little caramel. Fresh, a little fatter than I recall, rich, fleshy, lots of lovely substance. There is great acidity, minerally seam, but a nice depth and caramel -tinged richness, although this last element doesn't show until the finish fans out across the palate, in fleeting moments. A lovely style, fleshy but fresh and balanced. 17/20 AP number: 2 602 065 013 99

Markus Molitor Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Eiswein 1998: This wine has a rich and golden hue. The nose is remarkable, intense and smoky-earthy, with a soft but intense lime-marmalade sweetness. I really struggle to find the words to describe it, but it is intense and in possession of great depth, with a rather deep and earthy character, but also intense sweetness too. The palate has the same character, delicious lime pastille sweetness but also balance, depth, and style. This is lovely but gentle and perfectly poised, with a subtle tingle of acidity in the background, and a great finish. I think this style of wine really needs time; it is clearly of great quality, and it has seen huge positive development since my last bottle six years ago, but perhaps it will be even greater in another ten years? 17.5+/20 AP number: 2 576 609 42 99

Tim Adams Semillon (Clare Valley) 1998: Still a rich and golden wine, very similar to its appearance four years ago, when I last tasted this wine. The nose is very waxy, showing notes of dried fruits and nuts. On the palate there is plenty of substance; this is a big, textured, heady wine in the mouth. Full, impressive, not seductive or creamy, just rich and very firm. There is plenty of grip through the midpalate and finish, and a welcome seam of apple-skin acidity. This is much better than my last tasting would have initially suggested. Nevertheless, I don't think there is anything else to be gained from further ageing here. Drink up I think. 16.5/20

Simon Gilbert Cabernet Sauvignon Abbaston (McLaren Vale) 1998: This wine has a deep colour, still with a lot of youthful pigment to it. There is also youth on the nose, which is showing lots of bright fruit, very much in the redcurrant and cranberry style at the moment, along with the aromas of sweet mint, dark chocolate and eucalyptus, all of which is fairly typical for McLaren Vale Cabernet I think. The palate is a little off-key however, as although the wine displays that rich texture of ripe fruit that I was expecting, there is also an incongruous bright and peppy, green apple-skin acidity which almost seems to effervesce such is its prominence. Those other characters noted on the nose come through also, buoyed up by a soft and creamy texture and an unobtrusive, well covered structure. It has a rather short finish. Overall this wine, which has a very good reputation in keeping with its origins - Simon Gilbert is descended from Joseph Gilbert, who established Pewsey Vale - doesn't seem to have held up that well. 13/20

D'Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz (McLaren Vale) 1998: A very dark hue when poured, and it seems to have plenty of youthful pigment too; it is well into the red-garnet part of the spectrum, and I immediately have more optimism for this wine than the disjointed 1997 which was in last year's tasting. The nose has a porty style, with dried blueberries and cranberries (strangely, on reviewing my note I see that this was exactly how I began with the 1997 last year). You can also sense the spirit here, but it seems powerful rather than awkward, and alongside it there are notes of mint, chocolate, vanilla and more. This impression continues on the palate, which has rich, dried red fruits, with all these other rich aromas. It has a creamy substance, backed up by plenty of ripe and soft tannins, and a little grip struggling to gain some attention at the very finish. It has piles more appeal than the 1997, and technically this is very good wine. But I find it very difficult to score, as over the years my palate has certainly moved away from favouring huge and saucy fruit bombs such as this. It remains painfully youthful, and I wonder if it wouldn't be a greater wine in another five or ten years time? I will score it with that in mind, rather than its rather tarty showing at present. 17.5+/20