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Ten Years On: The 1995 Vintage

Global vintage inspections tend to start with Bordeaux, and for many people seem to end there also! But I'm aware that Winedoctor readers have wisely broad tastes, so there will be no such premature conclusion in this rapid vintage round-up.

In Bordeaux this was a vintage with success on both sides of the Gironde, generally rated more favourably than 1994 Bordeaux, and certainly further cause for relief after the very difficult triumvirate of 1991-1993. Nevertheless, I have long held a preference for the 1996 vintage which, although not as successful on the right bank, did produce some great, structured wines in the left bank communes. There was success also in Burgundy, for red and white, although there was greater success to come in subsequent vintages such as 1996 (now seemingly beset by oxidation, particularly affecting the whites), 1999 and 2002. And both parts of the Rhône saw moderate success, as already witnessed in my Southern Rhône 1995 and Northern Rhône 1995 tastings. The Champagne region also yielded a number of vintage wines of quality, although I elected to include none here. Perhaps a 1995 Champagne tasting in the next year or two would be fun? In the Loire, this wasn't a great vintage for reds, but there were - as always - some good wines to be found, and there were some lovely sweet white wines produced.

France wasn't alone in Europe, however, in enjoying a decent vintage. For fans of Spain's classic regions, Rioja and Ribera del Duero, this was a vintage for purchasing, although the 1994 vintage produced more profound Rioja. There were also good wines from Germany, this being another in a string of fine vintages during the 1990's, and from Italy, with some good Chianti and other Tuscans, and good Barolo too. Further afield, California enjoyed moderate success, more so than other US winemaking regions, whereas in Australia there were some difficulties particularly in the Barossa, less so in the Hunter Valley. By contrast, wines from the Margaret River region in Western Australia were potentially stunning. (28/12/05)

The 1995 Vintage - Tasting Notes

Tasted in December 2005. Click to locate stockists:

Bordeaux:

Chateau La Vieille Cure (Fronsac) 1995: Mature but still dark wine. Needed two to three hours to open up, and with time the nose shows a certain appeal, with some minerally, stony blackcurrant floral fruit. This carries through onto the palate, which although firm, dry, tannic and structured has a pleasing supple, seamless presence of fruit. There is a slightly unusual character to the acidity, which seems a little incongruous, and a firm tannic finish. A wine that has given pleasure over the past few years, but now merits drinking up I think. 16/20

Chateau Haut-Batailley (Pauillac) 1995: A dark, fairly opaque hue. A great nose, stuffed with smoky graphite and maturing mineral fruits. This expressive wine certainly has the desired style, with a medium to full-bodied, plump, ripe succulent palate infused with black olives and sensible extract, underpinned by a fine structure of tannins. Dry, balanced, with super mature flavour, but still showing a grippy tannic finish. Lovely, still with potential for future development. 17+/20

Chateau Batailley (Pauillac) 1995: Lovely glossy colour, which still has a very youthful hue. A open and attractive nose, with mineral, iron-edged bloody fruit. Undeniably left bank claret. Full bodied and slightly austere on entry, with a firmly structured presence showing plenty of peppery tannin through the midpalate and finish. Slightly soft acidity but no lack of grip, and drinks well with food because of that. A little style typical of Pauillac, with firm iron-cased fruit, green olives and a little pencil lead. Spicy, black peppercorn finish. Very good, but needs four hours and more in the decanter. Has continuing potential. 16.5+/20

Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry (Margaux) 1995: A dark, maturing but still vibrant hue. Good depth to the nose, which offers a little aniseed and bay leaf complexity to the spiced, macerated blackcurrant fruit. A lovely, cool entry, with nice extract and substance. A good grippy core of tannin, wrapped in black olive fruit. Balanced, elegant texture, and a fine persistence on the palate. Very drinkable now with a few hours in the decanter, but will only improve over the next ten years. Very good indeed. 17+/20

Rhône:

Jamet Côte Rôtie 1995: A remarkable colour, showing just early maturity but still with an intense and vibrant red rim. Just a little rubber at first, and some intense, dark fruit, settling to leave some meaty red fruit aromas. A really very pleasing richness on entry, but showing a reserved and still somewhat tannic structure through the midpalate, with a slightly angular feel as a result. Nevertheless the balance, and appealing cottony, chalk-edged texture both suggest this has great potential for the future evolution into a fine, nicely poised wine, which is much more than I thought on my last tasting. Just a little coffee-tinged note on the finish. Some length. Very good, excellent potential. 17.5+/20

Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape 1995: Dark hue, very little sediment. A very pungent animal fur nose at first, although this characteristic soon yields to allow in other nuances, but it holds on to this animalistic, meaty style. None of the polystyrene cement that dominated when I tasted this in 2004; it never ceases to amaze me how one wine can exhibit such differing aromas as it evolves. Lovely elegant presence on entry, showing a fine weight through the midpalate, with reserved, balanced style. It has the fruit and substance for continued development, and there is some obvious youthful tannin showing at the finish. Great length though, and starting to give lots of pleasure now. 18+/20

Loire:

Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon Onnis 1995: A rich golden hue, the depth showing us this cuvée has some bottle age. Beautifully pure mineral-laden aromas of quince and honeycomb on the nose. Lovely appeal on the palate, which is full, with a weighty mouthfeel, rich with honeyed botrytis and a level of acidity that is just sufficient to provide a good sense of balance. Great, persistent character on the finish. Very fine; I look forward to further bottles of this. 18.5/20

Spain:

Valduero Ribera del Duero Crianza 1995: Nice oxblood hue, quite deep at the core, paling to a blood red at the rim. A nose of blackberry, leather, and quite a meaty, animalistic character too, opening out to develop a mature, vegetal feel. Complex nuances of cigars and old furniture. Quite dry tannins on the palate, with decent body and a nice, integrated core of cottony texture and well balanced acidity. A little twist of leather to the dark, macerated, peppery forest fruits, with a slightly meaty extract, and a finish where tannins still dominate. Certainly there has been beneficial development since my last tasting. Very good. Approachable now, but should improve further for another 2-3 years at least. 16+/20

Cosme Palacio y Hermanos Rioja 1995: This wine shows a deep, glossy red-black hue. Smoky mushrooms and grilled meat on the nose, with an edge of leathery tar. Full, still showing good extract and structure on the palate, with big, supple, rounded but grippy tannins, although with firm acidity. Complexity comes in the form of meaty, toffee-influenced raspberry fruit. This has held up well for what it is, and although it still shows good structure it is worth drinking now before that acidity becomes any more incongruous. 16.5/20

Faustino Rioja Gran Reserva I 1995: Mature colour, but with a decent depth at the core, leading out to a pink-orange rim. Quite a simple nose, showing a rather high-toned character, with some acetone volatile acidity lifting a little leather aroma. Subtle entry, but decent presence through the midpalate. Still has a little extract on display, nice weight, and appealing cinnamon-spiced blackberry fruit. Fully integrated tannin and decent acidity. Lacks flair but is otherwise quite correct. Drink soon. Good. 16/20

Lebanon:

Chateau Musar (Bekaa Valley) 1995: A fairly deep burgundy-oxblood hue, fading to a pink-orange rim. Classic Musar nose; sweet strawberry and cherry fruit, overlaid with leather, sweetly marinated and grilled meat, mushrooms and plenty of ethyl acetate Musar character. Dripping with ripe, sweet fruits on the palate, with a citrus-peel, cinnamon and coffee-tinged character, and a volatile finish, the palate is full-bodied with a firm structure and plenty of substance. This is a Musar set for the long haul. Very good indeed. 17+/20

Australia:

Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River, WA) 1995: Deep but maturing colour. Some volatility at first, which blows off to reveal a meaty nose of crushed blackcurrant, tapenade and stale coffee grounds. Full bodied, rather creamy style, with a ripe, supple tannic backbone. Macerated-stewed blackcurrant fruit and black olive character. There is plenty of substance here, and the structure for another five years (and probably the same again) in the cellar, although I don't envisage great complexity appearing during that time. Nicely demonstrates the success of 1995 in the Margaret River region. Very good. 17+/20

De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon (NSW) 1995: From half-bottles. A very deep, orange-copper hue. Liquid marmalade on the nose, with botrytis, baked earth and oranges, barley sugar and caramel. Full, rich palate with almost insensible acidity. Deep and smoky flavours, with notes of baked honey, barley sugar and toffee character on the palate, which has a huge, cloying finish. Sadly lacking in acidity, and therefore it does not posses the verve of a great wine, this hasn't made the same impression on me as my last tasting five years ago; perhaps this is down to development of my palate as much as the wine itself? 12/20