My first few days in Bordeaux for the primeur tastings of the 2009 vintage were spent on the left bank, my exposure to the wines of the right bank very limited. My chance would come on my third day, and in the meantime all I had were the rumours, suggesting that the Merlots on the right bank were less affected by the heat than those on the left bank. This seemed surprising; after all, in a vintage marked by extreme levels of ripeness in the Merlots, producing raw materials of unparalleled sweetness and alcohol, it would seem only natural that the Merlot-rich blends of the right bank would be those most at risk of losing any sense of balance. I could do little more than wonder whether or not the cooler, more water-retentive terroirs may have protected the right bank fruit, whilst I bided my time, waiting for my opportunity to taste the wines for myself.

In the meantime, two wines tasted at Léoville-Las-Cases, Nenin and the second wine Fugue de Nenin (part of the Delon portfolio), did nothing to dispel the rumours. And so I approached the right bank wines on day three very much with an open mind, ready to find elegance and freshness as per the rumours, or sweetness and heat, as might be expected from a prior understanding of the vintage. Which was it to be though?

Ultimately I found another mixed bag of wines, yet more confirmation that 2009 is not a reliable and consistent vintage in the way that 2005 was. And by the end of day three it was becoming clear to me that the character of the Merlots in 2009 was just as evident - if not more so - on the right bank as on the left in this vintage. My feeling was that Pomerol was more notably afflicted than St Emilion, the wines of the former commune in some cases showing the most disjointed and alcohol-rich palates of the vintage. Nevertheless, both communes still offer us many successful wines in 2009, as well as a number of super-stars. As with the left bank communes, there is a variety of styles, and these certainly warrant some debate.

Leaving Pomerol aside until my next update, I focus here exclusively on St Emilion. Always a challenge to taste, whether in London or Bordeaux, this commune remains as stylistically diverse and as difficult to understand as ever. There are Cabernet-dominated wines that feel as though they were born on the left bank, crisp but evidently Merlot-based wines marked by red fruit, well-balanced wines of flesh, substance and acidity, darkly coloured and heavily-extracted wines, and more. And that's just in a 'normal' vintage; in 2009 throw in a dollop of raw alcohol here and there and you begin to develop a broad but hardly concise picture of the commune and to some extent how it has performed this year.

Reining in the style of the wine - achieved by not picking too late, cool fermentations, short macerations, making good use of Cabernet (largely Cabernet Franc on the right bank of course, but the same applies on the left bank with Cabernet Sauvignon) over Merlot - has yielded a very small number of incredibly elegant wines in this vintage, not just in this commune. In St Emilion the archetype is Ausone, 55% Cabernet Franc (as seems to be the norm here), whereas the other first growth estate, Cheval Blanc, is unusually Merlot-heavy this year, with a blend that is 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc, much of the latter variety going into the small-volume (15% of the total production) second wine, Le Petit Cheval. It is of note that 20% of the harvest at Cheval has been channelled into a third wine, as at Margaux, yet another indication that this is a vintage where winemakers had to work hard, selecting and deselecting ruthlessly, in order to find the finesse and balance from within the raw materials. But why all the Merlot, you might wonder, when this is a vintage when it is the Cabernets that bring freshness and lift. Unfortunately on the right bank there were also problems with the Cabernet Franc, so it wasn't as simple as chucking as much Cabernet Franc into the vat as possible. It seems that the long period of dry weather before the rain came in September is said to have stressed the right bank Cabernets more than the Merlot, perhaps reflecting the less retentive, warmer gravel terroirs favoured for planting Cabernet Franc, and so there were quality issues with both varieties. Hence a number of estates have gone down the road of increased Merlot dominance, even in this alcoholic Merlot vintage. Cheval Blanc is one, Angélus is another in this commune (although I was unable to schedule a visit this year), and in Pomerol Vieux Château Certan is another.

Although predominantly Merlot the alcohol level in Cheval Blanc only reached 13.9% this year, a higher figure than is usual of course, but nothing exceptional in this vintage. All the same, Cheval Blanc has given me perhaps the longest pause for thought in this vintage; it is clearly of high quality, and admired by many. It is a great wine, and Pierre Lurton's enthusiasm for the wine and the vintage is infectious. It is hard not to be swayed by his energy, and of course his invitation to "come next door for a taste of Yquem". But for me there was a fleeting whisp of alcohol on the nose, and it showed a solid power rather than the ethereal presence that I was looking for, perhaps the effect of a reduced proportion of Cabernet Franc? Whatever the reason, this excellent wine did not push every first growth button for me. All the same, it will I think be highly rated by many (it is I should point out highly rated by me!) and will sell for a high price. After all, Cheval Blanc's dramatic new cellars - the plans for which Pierre Lurton is showing off to Margaret Rand above - have to be financed somehow.

Beyond the elegantly styled wines come a mix of rich wines, full of ripe Merlot and little Cabernet Franc, a surprising number of which achieve an impressive although highly-positioned sense of balance. But one or two go a little further than this, drawing my attention from the opposite end of the spectrum to Cheval Blanc and Ausone, and without a doubt one of the most notable was Troplong-Mondot. Anybody who has followed the Bordeaux 2009 reports so far will probably already know why; this estate, one of many to be afflicted by the hail, has turned out a wine remarkable for a number of reasons, but the most newsworthy is the mind-blowing 15.5% alcohol. Unbelievably, this is not the record for 2009, Tertre-Rôteboeuf - a wine I have not tasted - apparently coming in at 15.6%. Knowledge of this figure prior to tasting the wine it is almost certainly set to influence your opinion of it, if not tasting blind. I tasted it within sight of the label, but happily knew nothing of this prodigious level of alcohol. And there was nothing on the palate to suggest it; no heat, no spirit, none of the warm kick that was so overt in many Pomerols tasted later the same day. There is more to wine than numbers when it comes to alcohol; what matters is whether it can be perceived on the nose or palate.

Of course, that does not mean Troplong-Mondot in 2009 is a classically restrained and very typical St Emilion. The wine still stood out from its peers in so many other ways; it has an inky-dark colour, and is perhaps the darkest wine from Bordeaux I have ever held in my hand. It possesses an incredible richness to the point of being quite lush, and a velvety power beyond anything else offered within the commune. The 2009 Troplong-Mondot is an extreme example of modern St Emilion, and so I suspect Winedoctor followers might raise their eyebrows when they read of how rapidly I was seduced by this model of extraction and concentration, but what can I say? We all have our weak moments. And in my defence, m'lud, it has a balance, albeit turbo-charged, with all its components locked in together, intense but also integrated. Some will write it off as a monster, but judged with an open mind I think it has a future....albeit perhaps a mind-boggling and divisive one.

The wines written up here are collated from a number of tastings, with many (although the tasting was less well attended compared with previous years I thought) picked up at the UGC tasting at Beau-Séjour-Bécot. And of course there were the individual châteaux visits, to Ausone, Cheval Blanc and Pavie, as well as handful of wines encountered at the Moueix tasting, which is naturally dominated by Pomerol but by no means devoid of St Emilion. I have also included notes on two Castillon wines and one AC Bordeaux wine at the foot of the page. None were tasted blind. As in my other 2009 Bordeaux updates, I must stress the importance of reading the notes to see the style of the wine rather than checking out only the scores. (13/4/10)

St Emilion & Castillon 2009: Tasting Notes

Tasted in Bordeaux in March 2010. Click to locate stockists.

St Emilion

Château Ausone 2009: Cabernet Franc 55%, Merlot 45%, yield 27 hl/ha. In this vintage Ausone has a creamy-glossy appearance in the glass, and it has a very different style to the rest of the Ausone range, including the second wine Chapelle d'Ausone. The nose is more perfumed, it is of course Cabernet Franc rather than Merlot-dominated (just!). Fresh, crisply defined, with sweet crystalline dark fruits. The palate begins in a supple style, maintaining an elegant poise through the middle, with a fine layer off fruit. A supple composition, still very youthful in terms of fruit character, but clearly elegant and very fresh. Poised, almost Burgundian in style, a wine of understated elegance. Very nicely ripe tannins, almost silky, very harmonious and well hidden by the fruit, and the acidity gives it a good cut too. Within the vintage on the right bank, and in comparison to previous vintages of Ausone I have tasted (not many!) it has a very distinctive, linear style that might surprise some. A wine of supreme quality all the same. 18.5-19.5+/20

La Chapelle d'Ausone 2009: The second wine of Ausone. Merlot 70%, Cabernet Franc 30%. Reserved fruit on the nose, but sweet ripe fruits, very open and expressive in the end. Sweet creaminess on the palate, very accessible, stylish, soft and delicious. Gentle fruit, a supple style, softly chalky tannins and fresh but subtle acidity. The overall impression here is of a delicious wine that will be soon be ready for drinking, although it is perhaps a little deceptive as there is a good layer of ripe, velvety tannins underneath the fruit. A super effort in this vintage. 17-18+/20

Clos des Baies 2009: This grand cru is deeply fruited, with great character, and with depth and substance to the fruit too. Rather a bold style of palate, lots of soft substance, firm structure though, with lots of ripe and chewy tannins coming in. Plenty of supple and sweet substance here. Overall an interesting and palate-flattering wine. 16-17+/20

Château Beau-Séjour-Bécot 2009: This has rather a bold style on the nose here, with some slightly meaty oak tinged fruit. Lots of supple texture here, grippy tannins, rich and broad. The structure is in fact quite massive, although there is a bright layer of fruit above. Great substance here too. The style seems firm but harmonious with the necessary fruit included within the composition of the wine. Should be very good indeed, although in a very expansive style. 17-18+/20

Château Bélair-Monange 2009: Previously simply Belair. A Moueix wine now. Rather dark and slightly smoky fruit here, and on the palate a supple style, quite fleshy, with good supporting acidity at the core. Ripe and well balanced tannins, supple and appropriate, although giving a very good backbone. Supple fruit. This is a very good style with plenty of well honed structure for the future. 17-18+/20

Château Bellevue-Mondotte 2009: The assemblage here is Merlot 90%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%. Alcohol 14.3% and yield 22 hl/ha. Incredible colour here, so vibrant and rich, a rim more crimson than crimson should be allowed to be. Intense, smoky-cherry and plum fruit. Wild and dense! The is a touch of maceration to the fruit quality too though. A creamy start on the palate, very rich and succulent. The tannins are ripe and rather more svelte than much of the rest of the Perse range, slowly building through the palate. It works well with the fruit. More restrained acidity than some others, but piles of substance. The tannins have a very fine quality but I prefer the zip of Pavie-Decesse right now. 17-18+/20

Château Bergat 2009: Another wine from the Borie-Manoux portfolio, this is 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. As a consequence of the early hail, an unprecedented 10 hl/ha, but as I have already discussed such figures are difficult to interpret. Dark and meaty fruit on the nose here, big bold fruit on the palate. Very gamey, wild, over a big tannic backbone. Lots of substance in the finish. Fair acidity. Nice vigour in this wine's favour, although it doesn't have the optimal freshness of fruit I would usually crave. Could be decent value though. 15-16+/20

Château Canon 2009: The nose here carries some exuberant fruit, black in style, off-set with nuances suggestive of vanilla ice cream. There is a supple style of fruit on entry, fleshy with good substance. It is underpinned by a seam of ripe tannins and crisp acids. The fruit has a fresh and juicy touch to it, but it also has a much more considered application of tannins. Overall it is certainly attractive, showing vigour and life rather than the heavier weight of some. All well-reined in a very harmonious manner, especially in the context of the vintage. 17.5-18.5+/20

Château Canon-la-Gaffelière 2009: A very dark wine here, totally in keeping for this estate. The palate is initially withdrawn, but opens out into a style that has a slightly gamey, oak -tinged character. There is a lot of good substance on the palate, with broad and dark fruits, underpinned by lots of tannic grip. The fruit has a very lush, soft, rich style, but also good acidity. No overtly expressed alcohol. Rather it is warm, huge, but balanced. A very good wine and perhaps an example of how the style of the vintage can help those estates where extraction is traditionally high. Or is the extraction itself reined in? Very good. 17-18+/20

Château Cheval Blanc 2009: The alcohol here is 13.9%, with 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc - unprecedented in this cuvée, famed for its Cabernet Franc-dominated blend - with 65% of the harvest in this wine. A vibrant hue, and a thinning bluish rim. Deliciously smoky nose here, although there is also sulphur influence here still. So it is difficult to comment authoritatively on the aromatics. As it blows off though it shows a more meaty, rich presence of fruit. Very appealing texture on the palate, direct and well honed, not bold and big like Petit Cheval. Lots of creamy substance, but it is well contained, harmonious and integrated. The alcohol does show ever so slightly here, but it is not overpowering. Plenty of good grip and with the beautifully velvet-cream tannins it maintains an elegance here, a balance between lifted texture and powerful tannins. I think this could be excellent given time although it undoubtedly has a very rich style that will demand many years in the cellar. Just two niggles that bring this wine down from perfection; firstly, a solid rather than finely finessed showing, and also that fleeting trace of alcohol. Although I accept this has a superb quality, and also that it seems to be popular with many tasters, for me it isn't hitting the heights that Cheval Blanc should hit. 17.5-18.5+/20

Le Petit Cheval 2009: The second wine of Cheval Blanc, in this vintage this has 14% alcohol and is 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot, taking 15% of the harvest (what was left over was put into a third wine). Rather a subdued nose here, not the beautiful aromatics that made me swoon last year. Plenty of texture on entry, quite bold, a bigger style of wine than I expected. Lots of tannins here, broad and ripe, slightly chewy in fact. Quite a stolid style of fruit in keeping with the massive structure of the wine. This doesn't have so much appeal. And I certainly preferred the 2008. 16-17+/20

Château Figeac 2009: The nose here is very fresh, deep and characterful. Quite a cool style on the start of the palate, rather stony-fresh texture, with well controlled moderate substance. An appealing tannic core, good acids, plenty of grip. Seems quite appropriate, with lovely bright red-black fruit. Elegant and understated, with a very fine balance of components. An impressive wine, although with its definition and elegance in amongst all these rich Merlot-heavy wines from its neighbours it seems more 'left bank' than ever in this vintage, reflecting its gravelly terroir and Cabernet-dominated blend (the vineyard is 35% each Franc and Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the wine is usually similar). Very fine indeed though. 17.5-18.5+/20

Château Fonbel 2009: A wine from the Vauthier/Ausone stable. This is 65% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot and 3% Carmenere. Yield 46 hl/ha. A characterful nose, smoky-meaty, deep with earthy-savoury fruit. A supple character to the fruit on the palate, quite polished, a fairly solid style, with a quite moderate tannic structure, rather subtle acidity as well. Plenty of aromatic interest but I find the palate rather too soft and broad for my liking. 15-16+/20

Clos Fourtet 2009: This wine has a nose of sweet damson jam. Despite this the palate has a rather cool style on entry, showing creamy jam flavour with damson and blackcurrant fruit nicely supported by a rather grippy character, with lots of tannin, a nice seam of acids and good balance. The fruit has a supple style, with just a touch of juiciness, and a good fresh presence. This is a very appealing wine which is a certain success - within the context of this vintage. 17-18+/20

Château La Gaffelière 2009: This has a warm, slightly baked but rather reticent fruit character on the nose in this vintage. Nice flesh, very dark, with lots of flavour. Huge extraction here, piles of tannins, and lots of fresh acidity too. The fruit has a dark style. Plenty of vigour. This is a wine with a prodigious level of extraction and structure; this, together with that hot fruit character on the nose, makes me just add a little note of caution to this one. 16-17+?/20

Château Haut-Simard 2009: A Vauthier property, yield 39 hl/ha, the blend 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. A nice colour, moderate density. Rather smoky and savoury fruit here, fresh oak too. Rather well-framed style on the plate, fresh, with an appealing substance. There is acidity here for freshness, and a polished, appropriately ripe layer of fruit. A nicely managed structure. At the end, a good core of ripe tannins is revealed. Attractive style which might be good value. 16-17+/20

Château Larcis Ducasse 2009: Dense and slightly brawny fruit here, rather withdrawn in style. Lots of creamy presence on the palate, with a huge grippy, massively structured style. As usual Larcis Ducasse has a piles of tannin and extract. But there is also plenty of density here, and fruit in abundance. Grippy and savoury, dense, succulent but powerful. The extract at this estate sometimes jars, but I find that in this vintage it seems to be turbo-charged in all elements, not just extraction, so it works quite well I think. For once I find this impressive rather than just over-done. Still, a very modern style of St Emilion that will probably divide opinion. 17.5-18.5+/20

Château Larmande 2009: A nose of sweet fruit here, notes of red cherry jam, with a rather warm and plump style. The same sweetness comes through on the palate, with sweetly grained fruit, notes of damson and peppery tannin. Good spice too. This has an attractive vigour and life. A good effort in this vintage. 16.5-17.5+/20

Château Lusseau 2009: A grand cru estate tasted at Pavie, and owned by Perse's régisseur if I understand correctly, this is 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc. Broad fruit on the nose here, with a macerated cherry quality, and a firm alcoholic kick. Lots of bold texture on the palate too, a firm shell of alcohol showing quite plainly. Also some good fruit though, very stony-cherry in style, but with some heat in the back. 14.5-15.5+/20

Château Magdelaine 2009: A Moueix property. Good deep red hue here. The nose has a very compact ball of creamed but polished red forest fruits. Likewise a rather direct seam of fruit leading the way on the palate, with a rounded, polished surface like the nose suggested. Through the midpalate it broadens out, showing a deeper, more characterful fruit complexity. Rather succulent in style, backed up with ripe, well-covered tannins. This has a good cut of acidity too. Supple composition but with a very appropriate frame. Very good indeed. Quite long, too. A very nice effort in this vintage. 17-18+/20

Château Monbousquet 2009: In this vintage the assemblage is Merlot 60%, Cabernet Franc 30% and Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, with 14.3% alcohol. The yield was just 28 hl/ha. A glossy hue, with an unusual smoke and ground-coffee nose for such a young wine; the fruit plays second fiddle here I think. Dark cherry character when it comes through, with a sweet concentration. The palate has a bold wealth of polished fruit, a firmness to it too, with plenty of grippy tannins coming in from the side, and also plenty of acid cut. Attractive fruit, rich and ripe, not the lightest style but I suppose it could have been pushed further considering the vintage. All the same, considerable extraction. 16.5-17.5+/20

Château Monbousquet Blanc 2009: Not St Emilion of course, but a Bordeaux Blanc, but I include it here with my St Emilion notes for the sake of completeness. The blend is two-thirds Sauvignon Blanc and one-third Sauvignon Gris. A fresh and beautifully lively nose, with creamy pear and lightly honeyed tropical fruit salad. I was perhaps expecting something rather heavier, but this is in fact quite lifted and distinctive. Rather a stony texture to it too, polished with some gras, but not that the fat weight I anticipated. Some good pithy grip. Quite restrained too in terms of concentration. Fresh, direct, quite lively, but not the cutting acidity that would elevate it to something really special. Nevertheless, an admirable style. 17.5-18.5+/20

Château Moulin-Saint-Georges 2009: A Vauthier property which neighbours Ausone and which is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc this year, with a yield of 32 hl/ha. This has really delightfully fresh cherry fruit, with sweetness and precision combined. The palate has a rather solid start, then softening a little to reveal some creamy fruit, but always with very firm sides. Supple substance, ripe and gentle tannins, a very fresh fruit profile, nice grip and gentle acidity. The style of fruit is a little juicy, but it is very lively too. This could be really nice but it is yet to see 100% new-oak élevage. 16.5-17.5+/20

Château Pavie 2009: An assemblage consisting of Merlot at 70%, Cabernet Franc 20% and Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, alcohol 14.5%, yields 28 hl/ha. A dark core, and a crimson rim, brilliant colours here. Dark and smoky fruit, lots of oak already here, fermented in temperature-controlled wooden vats. Intensely rich in the mouth, a massive texture, beautiful tannins, just as massive as the texture, huge and creamy and yet velvety too. Not the harsh structure I was perhaps expecting. A good acidity to it too. This is a huge and idiosyncratic style of wine which will no doubt incite strong opinions, but I feel I must judge the wine on how it seems to me and how I think it should age; the wine under Perse is now establishing a track record although I confess I have only tasted a few vintages myself. This has the firm structure and balance to age well, and I think it is potentially great. Massive, but needs the cellar! 17.5-18.5+/20

Château Pavie-Decesse 2009: Another Perse estate, this one 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, alcohol 14.5% and yields just 26 hl/ha. An incredible vibrancy of hue here, a dark core with a brilliant crimson rim. Massive fruit on the nose, plum jam and griottes, with a tarry richness. Very appealing polish on the palate however, very well framed fruit, there is an admirable extraction but the creamy fruit in the next layer keeps it from going over-the-top. Plenty of acidity too. Certainly a fabulously rich style. Plenty to it, probably a polarising wine in terms of opinion, but it works well. 17-18+/20

Château Pavie-Macquin 2009: Roasted fruit on the nose here, rather animally in style too, hints of baked-jam. The palate follows in the same vein, being loaded with sweet substance, with lots of tannin too. This all seems very appropriate for Pavie-Macquin, usually a fairly big and mouth-coating style, very highly extracted as we should perhaps expect. Nevertheless there is so much fruit here though that I find it works rather well. An impressive depth and character, although as usual I expect it will generate some polarising opinions. A very well made wine. 17-18+/20

Château Puy-Blanquet 2009: A Moueix wine. Good depth of colour, crimson rim. Dark berry fruit here, tinges of meaty richness too. Remarkably well structured palate, bright fruit with a firm pincer of tannins at the edges and very crisp acidity down the middle. Straightforward fruit, moderate weight. Quite firm in substance, more tannins coming in with time in the mouth. Quite a bold style, rather more structure than fruit to my palate. Overall, rather hard. 14.5-15.5+/20

Saintayme 2009: A grand cru estate, tasted at Église-Clinet. This is 100% Merlot, just 1500 cases. Harvested between October 5th and 11th. Lovely plum skin fruit on the nose. Concentrated, gritty quality. Fine and elegant texture, fresh but with supple fruit. Quite firm tannins, but ripe, correct, with plenty of lively acidity. Good fruit complexity and depth towards the end. Balanced and yet structured. This is impressive wine and could be good value. 17-18+/20

Château La Serre 2009: A Moueix wine. Rich and deep cherry red hue. An attractive and open nose here, with lovely plum and spice fruit, very accessible. A touch of tobacco. Nicely creamy texture on entry, sweet plums, well-judged texture and very ripe tannins coming through the middle. Lots of grip but not so much acidity. There are some seductive tones here. A huge step up from Puy-Blanquet though. 15.5-16.5+/20

Château Simard 2009: A Vauthier property. Merlot 65%, Cabernet Franc 35%, yield 39 hl/ha. Not a particularly densely coloured wine. The nose has rather subdued fruit with a layer of oak on top, altogether not very expressive. The palate is supple, gentle, with some sweet red fruit elements. Rather soft, with some good grip coming in at the side, and fair acidity, but I find it rather uncomplicated overall. Charry fruit. Lacks density. 15-16+/20

Château La Tour du Pin 2009: Alcohol 13.7%. Merlot 80%, Cabernet Franc 20%. This wine has been made by the team at Cheval Blanc for a few years now. Very fine and admirable, smoothly polished cherry fruit here. Gorgeous appeal. Lovely composition on entry, supple presentation, nicely textured fruit. A ripe and yet quite firm backbone of tannin, and it remains fresh although there is richness. Good bright acidity. Quite a substantial structure on the palate, but with lots of good balance. Delicious and demanding cellaring. 17-18+/20

Château Troplong-Mondot 2009: This wine has a fine crimson-black hue - an order of magnitude darker than anything else tasted during the primeurs. The nose has sweet, perfumed, black cherry jam, and the palate has a similarly sweet texture, giving a voluptuous presence in the mouth, but with a good and harmonious character too. Lots of midpalate grip, this is gently composed at first but then it reveals a more powerful tannic core. There is a fresh peppery acidity too. This is a prodigious combination of exotic fruit, supple although richly textured and with a massive structure. One of the most remarkable wines in this commune this year. After tasting the alcohol is revealed to be 15.5% - and yet this doesn't show on the palate which knocked me sideways instead with its ink-dark, black cherry fruit, tannins and flesh. And it has balance, even though it is standing on the very top rung of the ladder. I have to confess I rather like it, although I should make clear that it is not like any Bordeaux I have ever tasted before. So, sorry about the high score! 18-19+/20

Château Trottevieille 2009: As a result of extensive hail damage there are just 8000 bottles of this wine this year - that's 60 hectolitres from the entire domaine. Merlot 31%, Cabernet Franc 67%, Cabernet Sauvignon 2%. Dark and spicy fruit on the nose, with plums, fruit-cake and a good spice. A supple entry, good flesh, nice acidity and a good vigour. Lots of structure here, but good flesh to it as well. A good effort for Trottevieille. Availability will be very limited though. 16.5-17.5+/20

Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

Clos les Lunelles (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux) 2009: A wine from within the Pavie stable. Good fruit quality on the nose, fresh and ripe, plums and damsons. Attractive fruit skin character too. The palate has a good freshness, lively fruit over good acidity, and with some appropriate grip. Firm tannins, quite substantial, supple fruit. Attractively polished wine if rather robust tannins. A good effort. 16-17+/20

Château Montlandrie (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux) 2009: Supple and plump fruit here, showing some new oak. Attractive style. Quite a polished and very modern approach on the palate, beautiful damson fruit throughout, with supple tannins which build but never dominate. Good bright acidity, a touch fleshy. An appealing character here, with a meaty substance to the finish. Very good. 16.5-17.5+/20

AC Bordeaux

Château Val du Roc (Bordeaux Supérieur) 2009: Included here for the sake of completeness. Tasted at Ausone. Sweet macerated cherry fruit on the nose. The palate is the same, broadly sweet, packed with cherries. Gentle tannins, soft and well rounded, quite gentle acidity, altogether very sweetly attractive, a wine that should make for appealing drinking. 15.5-16.5+/20