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Bordeaux 2005: The Médoc Communes
Bordeaux 2005
En primeur
At Two Years
The Médoc Communes
At Four Years
The statement that I made in my vintage review, that it is difficult to go wrong when buying 2005 Bordeaux, holds true in the Médoc just as it does elsewhere. Nevertheless, there are one or two wines that are worthy of specific mention, some of which have missed their target of perfection, simply falling short. In contrast, however, some are quite stunning.
As usual the sample size from St Estèphe presented at the UGC tasting is too small to make any significant comment, although this shouldn't prevent me from drawing your attention to the success of Phélan-Ségur when lined up against more illustrious peers. In Pauillac, we have truly delicious wines, in particular those from Pichon-Lalande, Pichon-Baron and Pontet-Canet are all excellent, with the first of this trio being my favourite Pauillac in this tasting. There are also, however, a few casualties of the vintage in this commune, wines that show a soft composition, being rich in tannin but with rather low acidity. The quality is still good even here, but they are not for the truly discerning buyer looking for best quality, or I suspect even best value.
In St Julien the quality across the board is really very good indeed, with excellent wines from Léoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton, something that was clear when I first tasted the wines in April 2006. Léoville-Poyferré is on a similar level, and there are many other highly rated wines in the commune. Throughout Margaux the quality was also high, although I was not as impressed by the big guns of the appellation - Rauzan-Ségla and the newly revitalised Lascombes, for instance - as I was hoping I would be. Nevertheless, there are many wines of excellent potential here.
Sadly I had little time to look at the wines from outside the four major communes, and so I tasted just a trio of wines from Moulis, Listrac and the Médoc. This was a real shame, as these are not regions to be ignored in this highly desirable and broadly successful vintage, when so-called 'lesser' appellations are likely to be good sources of both quality and value. (15/11/07)
The Médoc Communes 2005 - Tasting Notes
Tasted at the UGC de
Bordeaux tasting in October 2007. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Cos Labory 2005: This wine is not immediately expressive on
the nose, but has a dark, attractive profile of fruit with an edge of nutty oak.
On the palate this is also true, there is little here in terms of aromatics or
flavour, and the wine is just a little ungiving at present. Nevertheless it
clearly has an attractive texture and a good grip, and a nicely composed
character. It is difficult to judge in this state, and I will have to hedge my
opinion. The structure, however, certainly holds promise. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Chateau Lafon-Rochet 2005:
This has a lovely, characterful, smoky nose full of dense, pure fruit. The
palate is dark and extracted, and has a rather chunky style. There are piles of
extract which dominate the palate, and the acidity is shifted a little towards
the low side. It has a good density, but a very big, chewy, warm vintage style
which may hold this back from greatness. 16+/20
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Chateau Phélan-Ségur 2005:
This has a very dark hue, and lovely, aromatic, dense, dark and rather gravelly
fruit. The palate has a rather pure character with an appealing leanness, and a
raft of attractive red fruits presented in a direct, very well defined frame.
This certainly has a pleasing nature, backed up by good extract and substance.
There is a lot of stuffing for the cellar here. Very good indeed. 17+/20
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Chateau d'Armailhac 2005:
There are some deliciously lively aromatics here, this wine possessing a pure,
crunchy, slightly smoky redcurrant and cranberry nose. It is very finely
composed on the palate, with a very ripe and rounded nature, and with plenty of
substance despite the crisp character of the nose. This firm, meaty presence of
fruit is wrapped around a core of delightfully ripe tannins. This has great
potential. 17.5+/20
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Chateau Batailley 2005: This has a very open, accessible nose with
some nice summer fruit character. The palate is immediately seen to have a very
soft style, with a lot of texture and a wealth of ripe, chewy, mouth-coating
tannins. It has a very flashy, slightly meaty toffee-tinged flavour and along
with this there is rather low acidity. Unsurprisingly it all rounds off in a
big, grippy finish. A touch overdone for me. Nice wine, but this will never be
great. 16+/20
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Chateau Clerc-Milon 2005:
This has very dark, nutty, oaky fruit on the nose, and yet has a very cool style
on the palate, displaying a very bright, vigorous nature despite having a very
dense structure. The fruit character helps, as it has a real crunchy, leafy,
cranberry and redcurrant style. There is good grip and a firm acid backbone. A
fine structure; rather a lot of tannin but it all balances out. This could end
up a really classic, meaty, typically dense Clerc-Milon. 17.5+/20
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Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse 2005:
This is dense and rather reserved, and is showing some nutty oak and dense fruit
on the nose, but it is a little muted compared to some of its peers. It has a
lighter, elegant style, fresh and crisp, with a fine balance. The composition is
good, but the flavours are well hidden today, as was noted with the aromatics on
the nose. Could be good but difficult to judge at present. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Haut-Bages-Libéral 2005: This has
a very vibrant raspberry fruit, bright and direct in character, but with a
creamy edge to tone it down. The palate is textured and fills out nicely with a
raspberry cream character, in a slightly flashy fashion. This is a very ripe,
supple style, with soft
midpalate tannins building to a large presence at the finish. The acid is
veering towards the low end. It shows the warmth of the vintage a little in its
structure, but nevertheless there is plenty here to commend. Very good. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Lynch-Bages 2005:
This has a slightly smoky nose, with a wealth of pure, nicely directed, quite
fine fruit. There is a similarly high quality of dense but nicely composed fruit
on the palate, with well covered tannins at the core, which show through a
little on the midpalate. It has a rather large, chewy style, belying its big,
structured character. But there is a decent frame of acidity too. Very good
indeed, with fine potential. 17.5+/20
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Chateau Lynch-Moussas 2005:
A dark and smoky nose, with a little stony violet character providing nice
interest. It is not too expressively forthright, however. The palate has a nice
appeal, though, showing a gently creamy texture, a seamless, nicely composed
structure, with a harmonious presence of nicely covered tannins and a gentle but
fresh and lively fruit acidity. This has a good finish too. Very good indeed. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Pichon-Baron 2005:
A bright and forceful nose here, showing crunchy fruit with a fresh, redcurrant
and blackcurrant character with a dash of pepper. Very pure and typical Baron
style on the palate as well, which has supple tannins, well covered with a fine
texture, and a nice acid backbone. Very good indeed; elegant but with weight and
excellent potential. 18+/20
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Chateau Pichon-Lalande 2005:
A beautifully pure, dense, summer fruit nose here, elegant, but showing vigour.
This is a real delight on the palate; harmonious, elegant and composed, showing
a lot of vigour, direction and elegance, There is a slight fleshiness to the
texture, with fresh, lifting acidity and beautifully hidden tannins. This is
very fine indeed and has superb potential.
19+/20
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Chateau Pontet-Canet 2005:
Exotic, interesting, spicy nose, full of very dense and perfumed fruit, notes of
roast herbs and a layer of cashew nut oak. The palate is very full, a touch
creamy, with a lovely composition. Rich fruit, good substance and weight, ripe
well covered tannins and a delicious, balanced style. This has great potential.
Another success for Pontet-Canet, and a much higher score than my en primeur
tasting. 18.5+/20
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Chateau Beychevelle 2005:
Very deep, pure fruit here, with exotic perfumed violets and white pepper. This
has plenty of interest to offer! Pure, a little lighter in style than some, a
lifted character, with cherry and cranberry freshness of fruit. A great acid
backbone, nicely defined, with an elegant, well composed style. A very fine
Beychevelle indeed. 17+/20
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Chateau Branaire-Ducru 2005:
The nose here shows attractive fruit aromatics, with plenty of very open cherry
and raspberry characteristics. When I tasted this en primeur I noted that it
needed to flesh out a little, and indeed the palate shows it has done just that.
It has a fairly dense structure with a full, creamy, rather seamless
composition. There is a firm core of tannin hidden beneath. This seems much less
paradoxical in its nature than when I last tasted it, but the likely outcome is
no different. This should be just fine. 17+/20
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Chateau Gruaud-Larose 2005:
The nose here suggests sweetness, perhaps reflecting the layer of warm,
honey-tinged oak, but also plenty of sweetly ripe fruit, presented in a very
dense, dark fashion. The palate shows an elegant structure, but it does not have
the rich structure or concentration as some of its peers within the commune.
Nevertheless it has a pure and seamless nature, with well covered and well
judged tannins. Very good. 17+/20
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Chateau Lagrange
2005: A really attractive, lifted style on the nose here, with a touch of
bright cherry and cranberry fruit. It has a crunchy but ripe character that I
really admire. The style is firm, elegant and crisply framed, with less depth of
texture and substance than some but there is still plenty of material here.
There is ripeness and a good defining acidity. Nice style. 17+/20
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Chateau Langoa-Barton 2005: This is immediately compelling. Here we
have very decisive aromatics, in a very pure and complex style, with a great
depth of very dark, complex fruit. And on the palate the wine shows itself to be
similarly impressive; it is pure and creamy, with a wealth of svelte, ripe
tannins which provide lovely substance and grip through to the finish, but which
sit very well with the fresh acids and elegant texture. Lifted, defined and with
excellent fruit complexity this is, as I have said before, the greatest Langoa I
have ever had the good fortune to taste. 18.5-19+/20
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Chateau Léoville-Barton 2005: Immediately following the Langoa, big
brother Léoville shows a very dark, pure and dense yet also rather more reserved
nose. It is concentrated and pure, but also withdrawn. A very serious structure,
with a lovely grip of tannins which are well compensated for by rich texture and
extraction and a fine balance of dense, ripe fruit. This is superb quality and
although less flattering than Langoa on the day this is clearly a wine of great
significance which with appropriate time in the cellar will be truly great.
Excellent. 19+/20
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Chateau Léoville-Poyferré 2005: A great colour, and a wonderful purity
on the nose, with essence of dark summer berry fruits being the order of the
day, with a touch of white pepper. This has great depth and is clearly very
impressive. It has a ripe, balanced, rounded composition, it is very firmly
glued together, but has a sweet, harmonious character which is immediately
appealing. There are ripe, svelte tannins which show through only at the finish.
Very nicely judged extract. Very fine indeed. 18+/20
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Chateau Talbot 2005:
Quite an evocative style apparent on the nose, with aromatic and rather well
concentrated redcurrant and cranberry fruit on the nose. It is perhaps lighter
in impact than some of its peers, perhaps not so concentrated, and it has a
slightly charcoaly character to the tannins, although they are very well covered
by fruit. Rather soft and broad on the finish. A very good wine, although a
little outshone within the context of the commune. 16-17+/20
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Chateau Brane-Cantenac 2005:
A very appealing and pure style, with good fruit, still with some nutty oak, but
overall very serious and appropriate. It has a ripe, rather flashy style on the
palate, but with a very fresh redcurrant fruit profile, with some rather herby
fruit. It is rather soft and elegant, but still with a little masculine
structure underneath, and there is more substance here than in many other
vintages of Brane-Cantenac. Very good. 16.5-17+/20
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Chateau Cantenac-Brown 2005: Here we have a big, fruit-rich nose,
spiced with toffee oak and pepper. The texture at the start has appeal, it is
flashy but not overly rich, although underneath there is a rather hard
character. The fruit is perhaps a little leaner than some, and there is a pile
of grippy tannin lying over it all, tannins which when tasting en primeur I
described as "supple". In the final blend they seem nothing of the sort, showing
a huge, chewy, overbearing, presence. The acidity is good, and it has the feel
of a wine teetering on the edge of over-extraction. It lacks a little focus, and
doesn't hold the short-term promise I thought it once did. I have moved my score
in a downwards direction. 15+/20
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Chateau Dauzac 2005: The nose here
holds a little harshness, with a macerated fruit character, and a little streak
of vanilla ice cream reflecting the recent presence of oak I imagine. The same
is found on the palate, which shows a rather bare structure, but fleshes out a
little in the glass. On the finish it shows a textured, fruity, mildly grippy
character. Not quite as impressive as when tasted en primeur. A little more texture and depth would be preferable, but decent wine
nevertheless. 15.5+/20
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Chateau Desmirail 2005: This has appealing fruit, and is another wine
still tinged by vanilla aromas. Dark, appealing, dry fruit. The palate is also
quite attractive, although with a dry tannic backbone which seems a little bare,
but with good acids. It is a touch hard on the finish too. It is not quite as
flattering as its peers, and not so harmonious as some, but nevertheless there
are good points here. 15.5+/20
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Chateau Durfort-Vivens 2005:
This wine is perhaps a little closed down on the nose, showing little in the way
of fruit character on the day, although there is some honeyed oak apparent. It
also seems a little spirity - I wonder what the alcohol content is?
Nevertheless, it has a lovely presence on the palate, with a fresh redcurrant,
cherry and cranberry style. The style is supple, soft, rounded, and overall it
is quite nicely put together, although it misses the vigour present in some
other wines. 16+/20
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Chateau Giscours 2005:
There is just the faintest edge of feral character here, along with dense berry
fruit and still a firm presence of oak. It has a rather hard and serious
structure on the palate, with sooty tannins offering a lot of drying grip, with
a nice acid presence too. The tannins stand out a little from the gentle,
lightly creamy texture, and my only concern is that the former may outlast the
latter. Nevertheless the potential is here. 17+/20
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Chateau Kirwan 2005: This
is not as giving as some other wines on the nose, but it does show a presence of
nutty oak with some rather reserved, smoky dark fruit. The palate has a very
well defined structure with a lovely acid backbone, and well covered tannins. It
is firm, nicely composed, and rather complete in style. The grip shows at the
finish. The flavour is tightly wound up today, but this also has very good
potential. 17+/20
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Chateau Lascombes 2005:
The density of aromas wipes the floor with some other wines of the appellation;
this has a super-expressive nose, loaded with dark, concentrated, tight fruit
with pickling spice complexity. I expected something modern, ripe and fleshy on
the palate, but instead it has a slightly hard style, with lots of fruit but
also showing a rather bony structure. The aromatics are delightful but this will
take a long time to come around on the palate, but if the fruit lasts with the
tannins this will be great. 17.5-18.5+/20
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Chateau Malescot St-Exupéry 2005:
This is very pure in style on the nose, and rather expressive, with a wealth of
deep cassis fruit. Dense and a little spicy, pure and rounded, but with a little
less texture and depth than I was expecting. Nevertheless, it is quite grippy,
firm and structured, and that grip comes out a lot on the finish. Firm with a
good presence of acidity. Good wine but there are some that overshadow it in
this tasting. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Marquis de Terme 2005:
A dark, slightly meaty, macerated fruit feel to the nose, with a background of
vanilla. The palate gives some pleasure, starting with a bright, fleshy, pulpy
weight which surrounds an appealing tannic core. There is moderate substance,
with nice grip. It is not as harmonious as some, but there is a nice definition
and it will certainly be good enough to drink. 16+/20
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Chateau Prieuré-Lichine 2005:
Dark and rather handsomely styled fruit on the nose, and an attractive, pure,
rounded, rather seamless character on the palate. The tannins are well covered
at first, but have a very firm nature, and provide a rather fierce grip at the
finish. Nevertheless there is a fresh, attractive crispness to the fruit, which
has a cranberry and blackcurrant leaf character, and overall this has a nice,
upright style. As is the case with a number of other wines, provided the fruit
and texture outlasts the tannins, this could be very good indeed. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Rauzan-Gassies 2005: There is very dark fruit here, showing a
trace of vanilla, although it is not as open or expressive as some. The palate
has a soft style, broad and although it certainly has a presence on the palate
it lacks direction or focus. Nevertheless it has appropriate grip showing on the
finish, and it is certainly a good effort for the estate. Decent wine. 15-16+/20
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Chateau Rauzan-Ségla 2005:
An elegant nose here, still showing nutty oak, but with a good depth of fruit.
This opens out in the glass to reveal a little fruit complexity, laced with
white pepper. Pure and creamy on the palate, components which are laid over a
rather firm structure, accompanied by rich fruit and fine acids. There is
elegance here, a rounded, complete style with lovely extract. I think this has
fine potential. 17.5+/20
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Chateau du Tertre 2005: This has a
beautiful nose, with rather open, dense, cherry fruit accompanied by a little
toffee oak and also a slightly feral character which resembles that found in the
Giscours a little. A cool style on the palate, pure and aromatic, with raspberry
fruit swirled with a touch of cream and vanilla. This has very attractive
character, and finishes very well indeed. There is very good potential here. 17+/20
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Chateau Fourcas-Hosten 2005: A bright, red fruit nose here which is
delightful in its vibrancy. It is rather soft and delicate on the palate though,
although only in the context of the vintage. It has a gentle, smoky character,
but there is a good quantity of grip and acidity beneath. It is not a very well
defined palate, but is certainly likely to offer good value if the price is
right. 16+/20
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Chateau Citran 2005: This has some exuberant fruit on the nose, lively
and interesting fruit, with a touch of oak. The style is rich, soft and open,
broad, and is perhaps lacking focus a little. There is good firm acidity and
grippy tannins, but it isn't showing the aromatic character to match the
structure that I would have hoped for. Again, though, these criticisms are minor
points within the context of the vintage and this is certainly good wine.
16.5+/20
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Chateau La Lagune 2005:
The fruit in the nose is sweet and ripe, with a slightly meaty edge, and a
trace of honey oak. It has weight on the palate, with a good balance of tannins
and acid, the former nicely covered. It is nicely composed and quite harmonious,
although the aromatics are lagging behind a little. I would think these will
come good in bottle though. Very good potential indeed. 17+/20
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