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Henri Bourgeois
Henri Bourgeois established his domaine in Chavignol, a town which is
probably more famous for its goat's cheese - Crottin de Chavignol - than its
wine. Nevertheless, the domaine has become one of the most important houses in
Sancerre, operating both as a grower and as a négociant.
The Bourgeois family have been making wine in Sancerre for ten generations, although until recent times the family business has been small. In 1950, under the control of Henri Bourgeois himself, the domaine was just 2 ha in size. Today the firm is run by Jean-Marie Bourgeois, with apparent boundless energy. Having grown to an impressive 65 ha, the domaine provides about half of the firm's needs, the remaining half being purchased from local growers.
Henri Bourgeois turns out a range of Sancerre and other appellations,
principally Pouilly-Fumé. The range is, in fact, almost beyond comprehension,
and if we were to take into account the family's venture in New Zealand then it
really would be too much. Nevertheless the most commonly found cuvées are worth
detailing. The top Sancerre is the MD de Bourgeois, made
from the slopes adjacent to Les Monts Damnés; La Bourgeoise, made from
fifty year old vines on the southwest facing slopes of St Satur; Etienne
Henri, made from the same fruit as La Bourgeoise but
fermented in new oak;
and Sancerre d'Antan, an old vines bottling from silicious soils, which
is neither fined nor filtered. In addition to these bottlings, in exceptional
years the fruit from Les Monts Damnés may be released as a separate
cuvée. The basic Henri Bourgeois Sancerre, La Vigne Blanche, a négoce
bottling, is a good example of the appellation, but a step up is the Grande
Réserve, made from both purchased and domaine-grown fruit. The red wines
include a standard Henri Bourgeois bottling, but also La Bourgeoise
cuvée. There are also some late-harvest white wines produced. (16/9/04)
Contact details:
Address: Chavignol, 18300 Sancerre
Telephone: +33 (0) 2 48 78 53 20
Fax: +33 (0) 2 48 54 14 24
Internet:
www.bourgeois-sancerre.com
Henri Bourgeois - Tasting Notes
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Henri Bourgeois 'Petit Bourgeois' Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de Pays du Jardin
de France) 2002: Pale colour. A bit of stink at first, a little like wet
paper towel (but not TCA) which quickly disperses to leave a bouquet of green
fruit with a grassy edge. A nice palate, very fresh, very primary, but with only
a suggestion of depth or richness. Uncomplicated summer drinking. 14/20 (June
2004)
Henri Bourgeois Pouilly-Fumé 2002: A pale golden-green hue. Stylish
and pungent nose, expressing green asparagus and greengage fruit, with smoke and
minerals in the background. Full, rounded and weighty. Fresh, with lively
acidity and a slightly creamy suggestion at the edge. A solid, grippy finish.
This would cope well with a couple of years in the cellar. 16+/20 (June 2004)
Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Grande Réserve 2002: Moderate colour with a
tinge of green. Classic nose, quite stylish, with some ripe kiwi fruit aromas
alongside grassy, greengage notes. Ripe, full palate, nicely balanced with a
sappy feel and fresh acidity. Clean finish. A very classic Sancerre which
doesn't quite match Vacheron's straight cuvée from the same vintage - but this
is a bottling dependent on négoce fruit, in part at least. 15/20 (June
2004)
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