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Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme

Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme is located in the central Médoc, near St Laurent Médoc, not far from Chateau Camensac, Chateau Belgrave and Chateau La Tour Carnet to the north, and Chateau Lanessan to the east. Caronne Ste Gemme derives its name from Carona, a nearby spring, with Ste Gemme being a derivative of St James, a local parish. Modern maps do not show this parish, as it was abolished at about the time of the Revolution, by which time viticulture was firmly established at Caronne Ste Gemme. But older maps show St James just south of St Julien, near St Laurent.

Chateau Caronne Sainte Gemme The estate has a long history, with first mention of the estate in local records as far back as 1648. There was viticulture at this time, the records indicating that the land was let out to a farmer by its landlord Denis de Mullet in exchange for some of the wine produced. The modern history of Caronne Ste Gemme begins in 1900 with the purchase of the estate by Emile and Eugène Borie. Eugène's descendants went on to own Chateau Batailley and then Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, whereas Emile's continued managing Caronne Ste Gemme, and still do so today. In recent years the estate has been managed by Emile's grandson Jean Nony, and his nephew François. In 1999 François and his brother took over the running in its entirety, with the help of cellarmaster Bruno Guyomar and oenologist Olivier Dauga.

The 45 hactares of vines, which have the Haut-Médoc appellation, sit on a gravel plateau typical of the Médoc, over an iron rich clay-sandstone base at the western end and a more sandy mix towards the Gironde. The encépagement is also fairly typical; there is a dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon, with a little less Merlot and just a few Petit Verdot vines. They are planted at a density of 10000 vines/ha, and have an average age of 25 years. A recent innovation introduced by François Nony is a green harvest which should improve the quality of fruit reaching the winery. After the September harvest, which is part by hand and part mechanical (an obvious focal point for further improvements), the grapes see a sorting and destemming at the winery, a light crush and fermentation of fruit from distinct plots in either stainless steel or epoxy-lined cement. There is a light pumping over and a maceration of up to three weeks, before the wine is run into barriques for twelve months, of which 20% are new each year. The first press wine may also be blended in. There is a little batonnage before several rackings, an egg white fining and bottling.

The grand vin is Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme, a fairly classic blend comprising about 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, although the exact proportions do vary with the vintage. The 1997, for instance, was a blend of 80% Cabernet and 20% Merlot, with no Petit Verdot. There is a second wine Chateau Labat. The grand vin provides excellent value for money, and in good vintages such as 1985 or 2000 (tasting notes below) holds the promise of excellence per se. (14/9/04)

Contact details:
Address: Chateau Caronne-Sainte-Gemme, 33112 St Laurent Médoc
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 56 87 56 81
Fax: +33 (0) 5 56 51 71 51
Internet: www.chateau-caronne-ste-gemme.com

Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme - Tasting Notes

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2001

Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme (Haut-Médoc) 2001: Dense, dark, macerated fruits. Pure sweet, slightly brawny youthful fruit. Very good structure behind it. Rounded, fleshy. This is very good and needs six to eight years in the cellar. An underrated vintage thanks to the success of 2000. 16+/20 (May 2004)

2000

Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme (Haut-Médoc) 2000: A dense, macerated fruit nose. Full of texture and fruit on the palate. Plenty of tannin here, dominating the palate, despite the presence of some Super-ripe fruit. Intense, pure, structured, Less brawny than my previous tasting, but still needs a good decade to really shine. 16.5+/20 (May 2004)

Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme (Haut Médoc) 2000: Good, deep colour. Not giving away much on the nose after first, but after a long time in the glass it reveals some roasted fruit notes. The palate behaves in a similar manner, initially all structure and no fruit or texture. With time, however, it fills out to develop a full, fleshy texture, although the fruit remains hidden behind the tannin and acidity. Closed at present. I recommend this not for drinking now, but for three or four years in the cellar - after which I think it will be really singing. 16.5+/20 (November 2003) Label

1999

Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme (Haut-Médoc) 1999: A lovely deep colour. Little on the nose. A full, sweet palate though, with good fruit. Background tannins and firm acidity, but it has the texture to cope. Tannic flourish at the finish. Good for the vintage. Needs four to five years. 15.5+/20 (May 2004)

1998

Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme (Haut-Médoc) 1998: A good depth of smoky black fruits on the nose. Softly rounded, unpretentious palate with black fruits and firm acidity. The tannins come through a little on the midpalate. Black fruit profile on the palate too. Needs three to four years. 15.5+/20 (May 2004)

1996

Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme (Haut-Médoc) 1996: Good, richly coloured red wine. Very young nose, loaded with toasted marshmallow oak aromas. Creamily textured palate apparent on entry, with layers of cassis fruit and new oak though the midpalate. Tannic. Maintains its attractive texture through to the big, spicy finish. Although approachable now, this wine will continue to improve for a few years. From a Bordeaux 1996 tasting. 16+/20 (July 2001)

1985

Chateau Caronne St Gemme (Haut-Médoc) 1985: The nose here displays mature, sweet fruit. The palate is delightfully and gracefully balanced, with a beautiful integration of tannic structure. It has a firm touch but remains very fluid. Elegant fruit. Finishes well. Very typical of the 1985 vintage. 17.5/20 (October 2003)