Château de Tracy, 2017 Update
Château de Tracy is arguably one of the best-known of all the Pouilly-Fumé domaines, a position achieved through having a sizeable 32-hectare vineyard and a very widely-distributed domaine cuvée which, for many people, seems to tick all the necessary Pouilly-Fumé boxes. Prior to this most recent tasting I last visited the property in 2013, and it seems quite a lot has changed during the four years that have since passed, so I am pleased to be able to publish this update on the domaine and its wines.
Perhaps the most significant change here has been the departure of Comte Henry d’Estutt d’Assay, the great grandson of Jacques de Tracy, who reconstituted the estate’s lost 14th-century vineyard during the late-19th century. Henry was from my point of view one and the same as Château de Tracy (pictured above); he was an eternal presence at the Salon des Vins de Loire, wearing his trademark bow tie (such things are not just for Christian Seely, you see). Although ennobled, he had a hands-on attitude that I admired. Visiting the domaine during harvest time, I knew there was a good chance I might find him in his blue overalls, scurrying around the cellars, not taking tea in the drawing room while his staff did all the work. I really liked that.
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