Two from Château de Targé, 2021
Château de Targé is located in Parnay, perched on the very edge of Saumur’s limestone plateau; indeed, some parts of it look as though they have grown from the very rock face itself. Wine has been made here for centuries, since at least 1655, although the property’s current standing is probably down to just one man, the incredibly determined Édouard Pisani-Ferry. Today Édouard has handed over responsibility for the running of the domaine to his son, Paul Pisani-Ferry.
The range of wines made at Château de Targé is quite extensive, including several sparkling cuvées (rarely publicised, but they are actually pretty good – take a punt if you ever spot a bottle), a smorgasbord of white Saumur and red Saumur-Champigny cuvées, and all sorts of other vinous curiosities. It can be a challenge just keeping up, especially in the context of a busy appellation which is evolving at a rapid pace. It is worth it though, as this is an increasingly interesting domaine which has recently completed its organic certification (back in 2019).
For this reason I was glad when Paul Pisani-Ferry recently sent me a couple of sample bottles to taste. It even included one cuvée I have never tasted before; this is despite having visited the domaine several times, and having tasted with Paul on numerous other occasions.
The Wines
Of the two wines reported on here, the 2019 Saumur-Champigny was the most convincing. This is fairly entry-level in the portfolio, and comes from silty-clay soils over limestone. It presents a classic profile for traditional bistro-style Saumur-Champigny, at the lighter end of the spectrum. With its floral fruit, minty red liquorice and tart summer fruits it would probably chase down an assiette of confit de canard, preferably served with a small Everest of frites, without even batting an eye.
