Domaine de Rocheville, 2018 Update
The Saumur and Saumur-Champigny appellations are home to a number of domaines which seem to be persistently overlooked. While the likes of Clos Rougeard and Domaine Guiberteau soak up the attention, their labels perfectly Instagrammable, other domaines which turn out wines of comparable quality without the cult status go eternally unnoticed. Tasting their wines, and writing about these other domaines, is one of my favourite activities on Winedoctor, because it allows me to identify where the good-value drinking can be found in these appellations. Not only for subscribers, but for my own cellar too.
One domaine that seems to be gradually sidling into this role alongside Château de Villeneuve is Domaine de Rocheville, a domaine which has been thoroughly revitalised since its acquisition by Philippe Porché (pictured) in 2005. Many of his vines are in Parnay, where his newly constructed cellars are located, but he has also subsequently gained a foothold in Brézé, a prized spot in the region, with the acquisition of the Clos de la Thibaudière.
Having first met Philippe a few years ago, I recently met up with him again to taste through some more recent releases as well as some older wines.
The Wines
We should not overlook the very first cuvée Philippe Porché poured, an Extra Brut Crémant de Loire based on the 2014 vintage. Philippe has deliberately gone for a distinctively autolytic style, not really typical of the Loire Valley where I tend to value those sparkling wines which feature the fruit of Chenin Blanc and more importantly the minerality and acidity of the region, rather than the winemaking. Nevertheless, there is no denying the intent, style and panache in this wine, and I certainly wouldn’t mind having a few bottles in the cellar for special occasions. As Philippe has only produced 3,000 bottles, however, I don’t fancy my chances.
