Domaine Masson-Blondelet, 2016 Update

For many years I doubted whether I would ever find any domaines in Pouilly-Fumé, other than the very obvious Didier Dagueneau, that were worthy of anything other than a passing glance. Of course, part of the problem was that I hadn’t really set about exploring the appellation to the extent that was required. These days, of course, that has changed, at least partly. There are still surely many domaines here I have yet to discover, and I still have lots to learn about these ancient vineyards the origins of which probably lie back in Roman times. Nevertheless, I have made efforts over the past few years to visit the region and to taste a little more widely, and as a consequence I can no longer bemoan the absence of interesting, noteworthy and frankly delicious wine here. There are plenty, if you know where to look.

Domaine Masson-Blondelet

In this vein one worthwhile destination is Masson-Blondelet, a family-run domaine based in what might be regarded as the heart of the appellation, emblematically at least, Pouilly-sur-Loire. The wine that is etched on my memory is the 2012 Les Angelots, a beguiling creation with a flint-limestone backbone contrasted against a stunning body of exotic fruits. It is perhaps only natural that I should return to the domaine again (and again), in order to try to recapture that experience. Doing so led me to Pierre-François Masson (pictured above) and his sister Mélanie, the new generation now largely responsible for the running of the domaine; happily, with two very good vintages under their belts in 2014 and 2015, they have any number of wines that can slake my thirst.

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