A Visit to Jonathan Pabiot, 2017: Esca
We continued our tour, passing the cellars of Michel Redde, then into a small valley on the way down to the settlement of Les Loges. We pulled over to look at some more of Jonathan’s vines, some of which looked decidedly unhappy, their leaves turning a sickly yellow hue, their edges curled and crisped, a dead-brown hue. It was, of course, Esca.
This fungal disease affects many different varieties, not just Sauvignon Blanc, although it is fair to say that this variety does seem harder hit than most. Although there are quite a few theories on how the disease might be controlled or managed, everything from co-planting wild leeks to drilling into the wood of the trunk, it seems many vignerons are resigned to the ultimate cure, which is to pull up and replace the ailing or dead vine.
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