Jonathan Pabiot, 2015 Update
It is now several years since I first tasted the wines of Jonathan Pabiot, when I was immediately captivated. His wines are beautifully expressive, showing all the interesting fruit character of ripe Sauvignon Blanc, with citrus and orchard fruit aromas, but without losing any of the pungent confidence and bright, acid-etched definition that we also associate with the variety. There is perhaps only one other address that produces wines of such youthful bravado in the appellation, and a certain Dagueneau lives there. Even so, several years after I first described these wines, the generic wine press still haven’t really woken up to Jonathan Pabiot’s talents yet, and so his wines remain great value. I drank his 2012 Pouilly-Fumé (sold in a very handy 50 cl carafe, as it happens) in an Edinburgh restaurant only a few weeks ago, and if I recall correctly (never any guarantees with this, these days) the wine was barely halfway down the price list.
Hopefully readers will be able to take advantage of this situation, while the crowd continue to chase after the wines of the late Didier and now Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, as well as a few other famous names. Jonathan (pictured above) may not remain under the radar forever though, so buy a few bottles while you can. This is especially good advice at the moment, I feel; the current vintage is 2012 or 2013 depending on the cuvée, the former superb and the latter not too shabby (although a harder job for the vignerons). When these run out we will have the 2014s, which I suspect may well be the best of the three, and it is a vintage when the vignerons of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé were blessed not only with quality, but with quantity. There should be plenty of good wine to go around.