Domaine Guiberteau, 2016 Update

There is no one region or domaine that can be said to epitomise the way the Loire Valley has changed over recent years. Although I go through phases of excitement from time to time, like the time I first developed an understanding of the complexity of Savennières, when I tasted the crus communaux wines from Muscadet, or when I rediscovered Sancerre (and realised my understanding of Sauvignon Blanc was more of a misunderstanding), the truth is the Loire can not be represented by only one domaine. There are exciting changes, new domaines and new cuvées, new generations and newcomers to the region to be found all over. In other regions it sometimes feels like nothing has changed since 1855, but here I am continually making new discoveries, despite a feeling that even after all these years I am still only scratching the surface.

Domaine Guiberteau

Perhaps the most notable discovery of recent years has been Romain Guiberteau (pictured above). Maybe it is the need to identify a ‘replacement’ for Clos Rougeard (if such a thing is possible), now that the prices have gone through the stratosphere and are currently set to reach Proxima Centauri long before Voyager 1 even hits the Oort Cloud. Having said that I did recently buy some Les Poyeux 2011, after which I received a unannounced house call from my bank manager, accompanied by a gang of bailiffs and two strong-armed representatives from the local asylum. But that’s a story for another time. Coming back to Domaine Guiberteau, like many recent discoveries in Saumur and its environs the range is stronger in white than red, but there is quality and interest in both. The reds range from good to excellent, while the whites can be truly stunning.

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