Damien Laureau, 2020 Update
If we were to draw up a shortlist of those jostling for position at the top of the tree in the Savennières appellation it seems to me that Damien Laureau (pictured) would be in the mix, and quite possibly at the top of the mix. I have now been meeting and tasting with Damien for the best part of ten years, and during that time I have seen the quality in his small portfolio of wines go from strength to strength.
To be more specific, the Savennières Roche-aux-Moines cuvée is perhaps the greatest example from that appellation, with only the wines of Tessa Laroche, and perhaps those of Château Pierre-Bise, likely to provide any challenge. After the brilliant 2015 vintage, one which I made sure to add to the cellar, on this encounter I had my first taste of the 2016 vintage.
The Wines
Damien poured just four wines. From a very warm and dry vintage, the 2018 Les Genêts shows exotic and evolved character as well as a plush substance. It has real potential; the vintage remains much stronger in red than white I feel, although there is no doubt that some Chenins, from specific terroirs, have interest. From a slightly older and also successful vintage, the 2016 Le Bel Ouvrage shows great substance and a very evident schisty energy. And an older vintage of Les Genêts, from the 2015 vintage, poured from magnum, showed well.
