Domaine du Closel, 2016 Update
As I raced from one domaine to the next, trying to cover Savennières as best I could, I couldn’t fail to stop off at Domaine du Closel. I know this is a favourite domaine for many, and over the years I too have on occasion fallen for its charms. And I have also fallen for the charms of Evelyne de Jessey-Pontbriand, one of the most welcoming, wise and witty of the appellation’s vigneronnes. Take a look at many older books that deal with the wines of Anjou and they will pay their dues to Michèle Bazin de Jessey, her mother, a doyenne of the Savennières appellation. These days, it is to Evelyne that many in the appellation look to for leadership and inspiration.
As with a number of other domaines in the region, Evelyne (pictured) tries her hand at various styles, including rosé, red and even sparkling wines. There is no doubt where the strengths of the domaine lie though, and that is with the white wines.
The Wines
After the sparkling Vin de France Brut Sauvage, which I don’t recall having tasted before, it was straight onto the white wines. Of the three examples of Savennières tasted here, none disappointed. I began with the 2014 La Jalousie, which impressed with its plush fruit and fresh acidity. A single-vineyard cuvée, Les Caillardières, was next; although from a lesser vintage, 2013, I liked the orchard fruit spiced with a citrus lift here. The best of the three, however, was the Clos du Papillon, here in the 2014 vintage. The fruit here included 50% on the brink of botrytis. Thankfully this doesn’t show though in the character of the wine (I guess because it is ‘on the brink’, and not fully established) which has deliciously creamed and caramelised fruit intensity, with plenty of grippy backbone.
