Bordeaux 2014 Primeurs: Château Climens
For the first time ever I hit it right. If I said I have done it before, then I am afraid I was lying. This year, instead of flying past the side entrance to Château Climens at break-neck speed only then to have to reverse, or to execute a three-point turn in order to return to the gate, or to carry on round the corner and use the main entrance, I slowed down in good time and made a neat left-turn into the Climens courtyard. This is the cool dude’s entrance, for those ‘in the know’ and who want to shave five seconds off the drive down from Pessac-Léognan. I consider this to have been the crowning moment of the 2014 primeurs visit, because I feel I am now ready to be inducted into the Confrérie du Bontemps du Sauternes, a secret society for which there are three entrance requirements; first, an ability to imbibe heavily on Sauternes; second, the ability to look good in a robe and beret made of golden velvet; third, the ability to not drive straight past the entrance to Climens on every visit. The first two were never any problem, and the Confrérie should be aware that I have my own robes ready to go.
Making my way inside I met up with Bérénice Lurton who was conducting the usual barrel tasting. She quickly delegated this to one of her team, and we commenced the traditional tour of the vintage chez Climens, through tasting the barrels. “The weather in September was dry, with no mists, there was some desiccation but not much noble rot”, declared Bérénice. Picking eventually started here on September 25th, and as I described in my introduction it was a fastidious affair that brought in a very tiny amount. Quite a lot of fruit was discarded because of sour rot, nevertheless Bérénice eventually found some good noble rot in parts. Nevertheless the volume was very tiny, and the various lots were largely put together in a ‘micro-blend’ of pickings made up until October 6th. “Freshness is the key to the vintage” said Bérénice as we tasted, “but especially so in these early lots”.
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