Bordeaux 2013 Primeurs: Sauternes & Barsac Tasting Notes
To conclude, back to Château Raymond-Lafon, where having finished my brief tour of the gardens we headed inside to taste. Jean-Pierre Meslier gave an account of the growing season that was short and to the point. “Spring was terrible, and we were three weeks behind at the start, although we didn’t get much coulure”, he began. “During the Fête des Fleurs it was still pouring with rain. Happily, summer came soon afterwards. Ultimately though, quality was good. We carried out three pickings, between October 1st and the 31st, and there was a lot of botrytis. Sometimes we even had fully botrytised bunches. We had an average quantity, of 12 hl/ha, much better than last year which was tough, when we didn’t release a grand vin, but we had no choice. Now we are back in business”.
Here at Château Raymond-Lafon Jean-Pierre has turned out a seductive, fruit-rich, botrytis-rich wine rather in the style of Château d’Yquem just described. Although, to be fair, it is more the style of Yquem that has shifted towards that of Raymond-Lafon, rather than vice versa; Jean-Pierre’s wines often seem to have great depth of colour, seductive flavours of citrus, apricot and mango fruit, and wonderful texture on the palate. The 2013 is no exception to this rule. And tasted against the 2011 and 2010 (on which I will report at another time) it showed pretty well.
Some other wines deserve mention as they are of particularly high quality. In Sauternes, Château Suduiraut is extraordinarily good, and in Barsac Château Coutet is the same level of quality. Just a notch down, but having also turned out excellent wines which could be added to the cellar with confidence, are Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Château de Rayne-Vigneau, Château Rieussec and Château La Tour Blanche. At the same level, though, there are stellar performances from Château Sigalas-Rabaud and even Château Rabaud-Promis, both of which have turned in wines that must surely reflect the dedication of their respective proprietors. In Barsac, Château Doisy-Daëne has hit the same target.
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