Bordeaux 2012 Primeurs: St Estèphe Tasting Notes
Look at my introduction, and my notes, and it is clear that Merlot is a theme that runs through this commune in 2012. Where I have data I have included it in my notes below. But to further highlight the role played by the variety in this appellation, alongside the data already presented for Montrose, Cos d’Estournel and Calon-Ségur, both Château Cos-Labory and Château Phélan-Ségur included 50% Merlot in their respective blends this year, and Château Ormes de Pez has 44% Merlot, this highest here for at least 15 years (and perhaps for much longer; I only have data back to 1999).
This leaning towards Merlot is undoubtedly one reason why the wines of St Estèphe show a little more attractive ripeness and midpalate flesh than those from Pauillac or St Julien this years. But it is not, I feel, the sole reason. Although it will I suspect be overlooked by many, the presence of a little more clay in the soils here is, I suspect, also important. It is perhaps rather difficult to tease out, as the presence of clay is naturally intertwined with the slightly higher prevalence of Merlot in this commune. Nevertheless I am sure it matters; the increased ability of this soil to retain water during drought will have helped the vines progress the ripening of the fruit better than those of more gravelly and supposedly grander terroirs, further south.
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